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冰天雪地中的渔猎狂欢——吉林省查干湖冬捕自助游攻略(2015年修订版)

发布时间:2011年11月18日 编辑:王洁云 访问:69879 评论:48条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 吉林 松原 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 轻松
适合天数: 1天 花费预算: 300元 适合时间: 1月 12月
可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 吉林省 松原市 郭尔罗斯大草原 查干湖 冬捕 ◎切换到无图简洁版

查干湖冬捕
(跳跃的弧线   作者:越走越远)

  2016年查干湖冬捕时间:2015年12月28日-2016年2月中旬,每年12月末至春节前的一段时间,是渔民进行大规模冬季捕鱼作业的黄金时间。
  2016年查干湖冬捕开幕式地点:查干湖北岸渔港码头

  在千里冰封大东北冬季的松花江畔,每年都有一场盛大的渔猎狂欢,其单网捕捞量更是不断刷新着吉尼斯世界纪录。每到活动开始的这天,参加仪式的人们便穿着盛装来到湖边,祭奠着蔓延了千年的丰收喜悦。那气氛就如一锅沸腾的水,与大地在碰撞出热烈的声音后瞬间蒸腾在古老的冰原上。

  破冰下网
  每年查干湖的冬捕都会持续约一个月的时间,因为到达的时间有些晚,没有赶上第一天那传说中祭祀仪式上捕捞“开湖头鱼”的场面。住了一夜后,为了观看渔民们下网,我们早早就爬了起来,早晨4点多,外面漆黑一片中还透着天寒地冻,渔民家却已经热闹起来了。他们在吃过热气腾腾的水饺并喝一点点白酒御寒后,就准备出发上冰湖了。
  不多时,大家就来到冰湖上,此时还正是万籁俱寂,只有马车轧在雪上的吱嘎声(渔民们将坐着马车上冰湖的古老习惯依然延续了下来,听说一是为了减少污染,二是尽量少惊动湖里的鱼群)。在找到了第一天定下的下网标志后,渔民们用一种尖头的铁制工具凿冰(当地人叫做“冰镩子”),这种工具造型简单却非常好使,尺多厚的冰层,不一会儿就给凿穿了,湖水如憋坏了般咕嘟嘟地开始往破口外冒,当入网口被凿出一个三尺长两尺宽的长方形时,就可以下网了。
  渔民们在广阔的冰原上将大网从冰下一个个铁钩子中如穿针引线般穿过后展开时,一个椭圆形的大网就这么徐徐拉开。千米长的渔网那么沉重,单靠人力怎么可能拉得动呢?这时,一种沿袭了古老捕捞作业的工具要发挥作用了——马拉绞盘!把渔网前头的粗绳挂在绞盘上,由马来拉动绞盘,带动渔网前进。最开始一匹马,随着渔网越来越沉,马儿也越来越多,最多能上6匹马。
查干湖冬捕
(齐心协力   作者:越走越远)

  鱼山出湖
  渐渐浓烈起来,渔民们经过了几个小时的努力,也难得能喝口烈酒休息下。当马儿转动着绞盘将渔网慢慢拉到出口附近时,就开始酝酿着一天中最震撼人心的时刻。只见渔网从被凿成三角形的冰洞口捞出,肥大的鱼儿们欢蹦乱跳着你拥我挤,渐渐在湖面堆成了一座座小山,而洞口的鱼还在源源不断地往外冒!这样的一网往往就能打出几十万斤的鲜鱼!
  气温使刚出水的鱼很快就被冻住了,这时,各地慕名而来的游客们争先恐后地挑大个儿的鱼买,虽然鱼的价钱一点也不便宜,但是那气氛使得寒风凛冽的查干湖瞬间就沸腾了!我们也赶紧趁机在这喜庆地场面里拍拍照合个影。等到渔民们将收获的鱼入库清理完毕时,夕阳已渐渐羞红了脸,冬捕队又开始寻找第二天的下网点了。
  听当地渔民们讲,他们很注重冰湖的休养生息,除了每年投放多一倍的鱼苗外,冬天捕捞时都会选择大眼网,这样就可以保证小鱼的逃脱。怪不得如此震撼的捕捞量,却保证了这个古老仪式绵延千年持续至今。

查干湖冬捕
刚出水的鱼还在乱蹦   作者:越走越远

查干湖冬捕
诱人的大肥鱼   作者:越走越远

查干湖冬捕
单网鱼量惊人   作者:越走越远

作者:老骆驼
天还没亮便开始劳作   作者:老骆驼

作者:老骆驼
马拉绞盘   作者:老骆驼

查干湖冬捕
古老的祭湖仪式   作者:虎虎0459

查干湖冬捕
不断刷新捕捞记录的大网   作者:老骆驼

查干湖冬捕
挣扎的鱼儿们   作者:越走越远

查干湖冬捕
朝阳中的剪影   作者:越走越远

查干湖冬捕
战利品   作者:越走越远

查干湖冬捕
当地渔民留影   作者:老骆驼

查干湖冬捕景点介绍

作者:老骆驼
(渔民们清理捕捞现场   作者:老骆驼)
  查干湖在蒙语中叫查干淖尔,意为白色圣洁的湖,所以又称圣水湖。虽然身为吉林省最大内陆湖泊和中国十大淡水湖之一,但查干湖仍鲜为大部分游客所知,尤其是那充满原始北方渔猎文化气息且绵延了千年的古老冬捕仪式。据了解,这种渔猎文化源于史前,盛于辽金。另外,也因冬季捕鱼易于保存运输,所以这一古老的冬捕方式一直延续至今。每年12月中旬至次年1月中旬的冬捕场面,绝对震撼人心且大开眼界。如今,查干湖冬捕奇观已被列入国家级非物质文化遗产名录。
  2013年的第十一届旅游节以“走进渔猎冰雪乐园,共赏圣湖冬捕奇观”为主题。旅游节共分为迎宾酒会、文艺晚会、开幕式暨“祭湖·醒网”仪式、系列活动四个部分。系列活动包括“青山头十三敖包祭祀大典”、“查干湖水资源保护与水生态监测基地、查干湖水源生态调控研究基地挂牌仪式”、“2012年首届一汽奔腾系列车查干湖冰雪大漂移”、“松原辽帝”春捺钵与“松花江渔猎文化研究会2012年年会”、“查干湖文化研究会成立暨第一次会员大会”、“观鱼、赏雪、民俗体验系列游”等六项内容。

  2016年查干湖冬捕时间:2015年12月28日-2016年2月中旬,每年12月末至春节前的一段时间,是渔民进行大规模冬季捕鱼作业的黄金时间。
  2016年查干湖冬捕开幕式地点:查干湖北岸渔港码头

  查干湖地址:吉林省松花江畔郭尔罗斯大草原
  门票价格:无门票,观看冬捕直接前去即可。
  开放时间:8:00-18:00
  冬捕时间:每年12月底至次年2月
  联系电话:0438-2605689 / 0438-2607766
  官方网站:www.chaganhu.com

冬捕仪式看点
查干湖冬捕
(盛大的仪式   作者:菲特)

  “祭湖·醒网”——古老神秘的仪式
  每年,查干淖尔渔夫进行冬网捕鱼前都要举行这一传统仪式,祭祀天父、地母、湖神、保佑万物生灵永续繁衍,百姓生活吉祥安康,感激大自然对百姓的恩泽。
  仪式场面盛大、神秘壮观。震天的锣鼓,轰鸣的法号骤然响起,吹着海螺或牛角号的喇嘛、带领数十名族人的首领、手托哈达的蒙古族少女、带领数十名同样装扮得渔工的鱼把头、舞者们,刹是威武地进入祭湖醒网的场地。
  捕鱼部落的族人们在场地围绕祭坛顺时针绕三圈后,九名喇嘛合掌站立在供桌前诵起祝福的经文;之后走到装载渔具的马拉爬犁前,将碗中的酒洒倒在鱼网上,然后回到供桌前拿起包有羊肚的红绸包,双手高举来到冰洞前将其投入冰洞。
  祭完湖后,“渔把头”手里拿着“抄捞子”,在已经凿好的那眼冰洞里搅了几下,使劲往上一提,从湖里捞出了一条活蹦乱跳的大鱼来。这叫“开湖头鱼”。
  捕完“开湖头鱼”,渔夫接过蒙古族姑娘递上的奶干、炒米“饱肚”、喝过大碗的壮行酒后,飞身跃上马爬犁,大老板儿长鞭一甩,马爬犁在喇嘛的诵经声与喧闹的鼓乐声和炸响的鞭炮声中,伴着查玛舞,向溅起层层积雪的湖中急驰而去。于是,一年一度的冬网捕鱼便正式开始了。
查干湖冬捕
(冰中火   作者:虎虎0459)
  冰下取鱼——千年传承的巨网
  在辽金时代的每年春季,皇帝都要带群臣到这里举行“头鱼宴”、“头鹅宴”,并会见部落首领。凿冰捕鱼、海东青捕天鹅等许多古老独特的渔猎习俗就是从那时流传下来。
  正式开捕是在仪式进行完的第二天。每次下网前,先由六七十岁的老渔把头,根据多年积累的经验,判断选择鱼群聚集的地方,围着鱼群凿出400多各小冰洞,将2000米长的大网通过相隔60多米的冰洞,用传杆、扭矛和走钩在50多公分厚的冰层下慢慢舒展成一个硕大的“包鱼圈”。
  几个小时后,随着马拉绞盘的转动,一张张大网从冰洞缓缓而出,两旁的渔民手持挠钩期待着万尾鲜鱼出洞的壮观场面。一会儿的功夫,一条又一条的大鱼争相跃出冰洞,转眼之间就在湖面上堆起一个个高高的鱼山。从选址到出鱼这一整套工作要由60多人共同协作完成,任何一个环节出现一点纰漏,鱼就出不来了。所以2005年查干湖冬捕以规模最大、单网产量10.45万公斤的成绩被载入吉尼斯世界纪录,2008年又以单网产量16.8万公斤的成绩刷新了纪录。

  来到查干湖必体验的内容
  吃胖头鱼:去东北都必定要品尝一道充满黑土地特色的名菜——鱼头泡饼,那大得惊人的鱼头便取自俗称“胖头鱼”的鳙鱼,而东北最好的胖头鱼便产自查干湖。来到这里,品尝新鲜美味的胖头鱼就成了不可不体验的一项内容。
  观查玛舞:这种古老而神秘的跳神仪式于16世纪后半叶随藏传佛教格鲁派(黄教)一起传入内蒙古地区,至今已有400年的历史。前郭尔罗斯蒙古族自治县的查玛舞有着自己的独特风格,感兴趣的朋友可以前去观看。
  马拉爬犁:乘坐马拉爬犁在查干湖开阔的冰面上飞驰,任由凛冽的北风裹挟着雪花吹打自己的脸庞,这样的体验恐怕是最有东北特色的了。

  周边其他景点
  郭尔罗斯王府:位于查干淖尔大街北侧,引松河西侧,如今已发展为占地10万平方米的商业区。商业区按照王爷府原貌设计,并与现代商业街相结合建设,是集观光、餐饮、住宿、购物、大型歌舞表演为一体的仿古商业步行街区。
  妙因寺:位于吉林省前郭县新庙镇妙因寺村,西望查干湖。该寺建于清乾隆二十年至四十年,是吉林省和科尔沁草原著名的藏传佛教寺庙。
  成吉思汗召:“召”蒙语意为“纪念馆”,坐落于妙因寺后山冈的公路北侧,是目前继内蒙古鄂尔多斯市成吉思汗陵、乌兰浩特市成吉思汗庙之后的我国第三座纪念成吉思汗的场馆。
  鸿鹄公园:也称王府后花园,位于查干湖东南岸郭尔罗斯王府陈列馆后面的高地上。鸿鹄公园的主体建筑是鸿鹄楼,登楼远眺,查干湖秀美风光尽收眼底。鸿鹄楼是查干湖旅游区的重要景点之一。

查干湖冬捕出游地图


松原市地图


查干湖冬捕活动地图


查干湖冬捕周边自驾路线示意图

查干湖冬捕当地交通

公共交通
  查干湖属于吉林省松原市,外地想前去观赏冬捕的朋友可以先到达松原市后转车前往查干湖。

  航空
  查干湖距吉林省省会城市长春龙嘉国际机场两个小时车程,距黑龙江省省会城市哈尔滨国际机场两个半小时车程。可先乘飞机到达长春或哈尔滨,然后转乘开往松原的汽车。

  公路
  松原市公路建设完备,有近三百条客运班线,从很多城市都可以直接到达松原市。
  松原公路客运总站
  地址:松原市文化路
  电话:0438-6183085

  松原公路客运中心站
  地址:松原市乌兰大街1号
  电话:0438-2200114

  铁路
  多条铁路穿松原而过,有京哈铁路(北京至哈尔滨)、京齐铁路(北京至齐齐哈尔)、长白铁路(长春到白城)、通让铁路(通辽至让湖路)等。松原站为国家二级客运站,现已开通了到达北京、长春、大连、齐齐哈尔、乌兰浩特等城市的旅客列车。
  建议车次:
  车次          始发站      始发时间     到站
  K7305        大连         18:58        松原
  2589          北京         12:37        松原
  6339          长春         05:50        松原
  K7394/K7391 白山市  21:52        松原
  K7301        长春         17:00        松原
  K7303        长春         15:51        松原
  K7557        长春         16:28        松原
  2219          大连         13:29        松原

  到达松原后:从松原到查干湖的旅游车众多,交通十分方便。在松原市前郭民族体育场正门,每天早上8:00设旅游专车出发往查干湖,票价约为5元。火车站出口正北方向,巴特尔商场北面的“梦巴黎”婚纱店胡同口也有旅游车可到达查干湖,最早一班6:20发车,发车地点有站牌,间隔约40小时一班。另外也可打车或是包车前往,约1小时左右便能到达。

自驾(从松原市出发)
  1、沿G203/铁西路行驶3.4公里,经松原西收费站,朝白城/乌兰浩特方向,进入珲乌高速/G12。
  2、沿珲乌高速行驶约25公里,从长山/新庙出口离开,经查干湖收费站,朝查干湖方向左转,行驶约17公里进入环岛,到达终点。

查干湖冬捕当地住宿

  查干湖属于松原市,距离不太远,松原市有很多宾馆可以提供选择。另外也可以在查干湖景区住宿,更能充分体验当地民俗特色。

  查干湖红盾宾馆
  推荐理由:位于景区中心,是景区内成立最早、规模最大的星级宾馆。
  房间价格:200元/间(标间,24小时热水)
  地址:查干湖旅游区内,毗邻郭尔罗斯王爷府仿古商业区
  联系电话:0438-2990003

  查干湖蒙古大营
  推荐理由:由查干湖渔村、查干湖度假村、查干湖三星级宾馆、蒙古包群组成,位于景区中心地段。
  房间价格:368/间(标间)
  联系电话:0438-2990288

  另外这里还有很多经济实惠的家庭旅馆和农家乐可供大家选择。

查干湖冬捕当地饮食

作者:佚名
(鱼是来到这里必品尝的一道菜   作者:佚名)
  来到查干湖观看冬捕,鱼就成了此行不可不尝的一道大菜。查干湖度假村周边有当地人开的饭馆,跟各个渔场挂钩,新鲜打捞上来的湖鱼可以在这里吃到,一般人均100左右就能吃得非常非常好。
  而且,这里居住着很多少数民族人,所以当地特色饮食也是很值得推荐的。
  松原烤全羊:烤全羊是蒙古族宴席中最讲究的一道特色菜。烤熟后,将周身金黄的整只羊放在漆木盘中,由两人抬入宴会餐厅,绕场向宾客献礼展示后抬回灶间,交厨师刀解后端上宴席餐桌,其香浓沁脾。烤全羊不仅色、香、味、形俱全,风味独特,而且非常隆重,对宾客有极高的礼节性。
  松原炒米:炒米是蒙古族牧民喜欢食用的食品,蒙古语称“敖特巴达”。它的制法是:把稷子用水洗净,第一道工序是蒸煮,但不能煮到开花;第二道工序是在锅里用沙子炒,然后用碾子去皮、净糠。食用时,把炒米盛到碗里,加上白糖、奶油,用热牛奶泡后食用。
  东北亚“剖生鱼”:居住在松花江、嫩江岸边的郭尔罗斯人非常喜欢它。洒脱、利落的厨师会在片下脊肉,鱼还没有死去的时候快速剖好生鱼。食用起来,鱼鲜酒醇,真是一种别有乐趣的享受。剖生鱼的历史由来已久。满族民间相传,太祖完颜阿骨打有一次设酒款待使节,不料贪酒微醉。身边厨间老奴怕太祖酒醉失态,想到米醋、生鱼解酒,便做了一盘剖生鱼。太祖食用不仅清凉爽口,且食下几箸,酒意全消。从此,生鱼成了女真名菜。

推荐餐厅
  丁家铁锅炖鱼
  推荐理由:新鲜活鱼采用木头柴火炖制。就餐环境不错且价钱公道
  推荐菜:铁锅炖鱼、玉米面饼子
  地址:江北松原女子医院旁

  宫廷涮羊肉
  推荐理由:老式宫廷锅,牛羊肉质非常鲜嫩,服务也比较好
  推荐菜:牛羊肉火锅、羊肉包子、果味辣白菜
  地址:前郭尔罗斯蒙古族自治县康宁街,近东方洗浴。
  联系电话:0438-2134688

  查干湖韩氏三姐妹(蒙古包)度假村
  推荐理由:查干湖景区内唯一一家蒙古包饭店,很有特色,且地理位置比较方便。
  推荐菜宴:全鱼宴、全羊宴、农家宴等
  地址:查干湖旅游区
  联系电话:13080093710

查干湖冬捕行程规划

  观看查干湖冬捕一天或两天均可。
  一日游参考:早餐后从市区驱车赶往查干湖冬捕场地,观千里冰封的湖面上人工凿冰、下网、穿杆等过程。午餐后赶往出鱼现场,观看查干湖渔猎出鱼盛景。感兴趣的话可亲自参与冬网作业,体验渔民劳动和收获的喜悦。
  两日游参考:第一天在景区内住宿,有条件可以在晚间顺便观赏当地风情演出。第二天早晨前往冬捕场地,进行一整天的查干湖冬捕观赏体验。

查干湖冬捕其他信息

作者:越走越远
(查干湖中的鱼肥美非常   作者:越走越远)
关于查干湖冬捕的历史沿革
  早在一万年前,古老的查干淖尔人就在这里以渔猎为生。
  古代的蒙古族之所以称查干湖为圣水母亲湖,主要是他们世世代代逐水草而居,生于斯、长于斯,以湖为生,惜湖如命,爱湖如母,尤其是在寒冷漫长的冬季,他们更是依靠传统的捕鱼方式(查干湖冬捕)戗胜严寒,维系生活,繁衍生息,世代传续。
  真正的查干湖冬捕可以追溯到辽金时期。据史料记载,辽帝最喜欢吃“冰鱼”。每年腊月,辽王都要率领家眷来北方,在查干湖湖面上搭建帐篷。在帐篷里把脚下的冰刮薄,薄到像纸片儿,这时可以看见鱼儿在冰下游动。看够了想吃时再将薄冰打开,鲜活的鱼儿就接二连三地跳上冰面。历史上习惯把这种冬捕称为“春捺钵”。所以说,查干湖冬捕不仅是一种渔猎文化,更是一种民族文化。
  冬捕更是一项集体活动,使得各民族之间,人与人之间得以交流,一切文化和精神在冬捕的日子里得到了全面的展示和传承。

古老仪式的传承与发展
  查干湖冬捕不仅有着悠久的历史,还有着现代人对它的传承和发扬。查干湖开发区成立以来,深入挖掘整理查干湖冬捕这一独具特色的渔猎方式,重现了祭湖醒网仪式、冬网捕鱼等。同时,在冰雪渔猎文化旅游节上又增加了查玛舞、民族歌舞、头鱼拍卖、现场观鱼和大型文艺活动等,不断丰富内容。
  截至目前,查干湖开发区已经连续举办了数届冰雪渔猎文化旅游节,2006年,查干湖冰雪渔猎文化旅游节被中国旅游产业年会评为“中国十大生态类节庆”,查干湖冬捕也先后两次创下单网捕捞的吉尼斯世界纪录,如今已被列入国家级非物质文化遗产名录。

特产购物
  鱼骨画
  产生于20世纪90年代,是将各种形态各异的鱼骨,不做任何改变的情况下,粘贴于画面上,依型入画、依意组画。即“遵其意,保其神韵;仿其型,保天然美;画随骨,不失特色”。整个画面中,既能显示鱼骨原貌天然奇特之美,又可显示被组合成的画面所独有的风格和艺术特色。

  蒙古族帽子
  蒙古族着帽的习俗古已有之,在宋人所绘的《射猎图》中,就画有戴皮帽,著貉袖的北方骑士。在元代已经出现卷檐、圆顶或尖顶的帽子,当时,其帽檐甚窄,帽子的顶部覆以朱英,帽子前面缀有银佛,用毡子或是皮子制成。据说蒙古人戴的帽子最初是是没有檐的,后来元世祖忽必烈时期,因每年要到上都避暑狩猎,随行的察必皇后看到他狩猎时阳光刺眼,看不清猎物,便将原来的帽子加上了檐,使之能够遮蔽阳光。从此人们便将察必皇后的这一发明延续下来。
  从外形和作用上看,蒙古牧人的帽子主要有:圆顶立檐帽,尖顶立檐帽,风雪帽,陶尔其克帽,三耳帽、四耳帽和圆帽几种。参考价格为10元左右。

查干湖冬捕当地视频

 

CCTV·百科探秘——《世界奇观·查干湖冬捕》

查干湖冬捕出游参考

查干湖冬捕精彩博文
  《我所知道的“冬捕”》
  地址:http://msxz8848.blog.sohu.com/108570126.html
  推荐理由:包含很多手绘的冬捕工具示意图,简洁鲜明,能让人更好地理解冬捕活动的过程。

攻略制作队伍

顾问:老骆驼

摄影:越走越远 老骆驼 虎虎0459 菲特

行者:老骆驼

本攻略最后修订时间:2015年12月27日

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  • 引用 远方网友 于 2014-01-14 09:00:26
    w我盘锦的有想去的吗

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