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【走遍中国】清明,十四道春天的滋味——2016中国清明美食漫赏专题

发布时间:2016年04月03日 编辑:鸾七 访问:7180 评论:25条 发表评论! 纠错!
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攻略标签: 清明 传统 美食 四月 春天 风俗 纪念 文化 ◎切换到无图简洁版

  中国人是很奇怪的,任何节日最终都会落到食物上, 春节的年糕、元宵的汤圆 、端午的粽子、 中秋的月饼……甚至,演变到今日,食物本身已经取代了节日最初的纪念意义。
  至于清明的食俗其实与寒食节有关。因为这两个节日常常相差不过一两日,后来就合二为一了。
  相传,寒食节的起源是春秋时代的一则旧事。春秋五霸之一的晋文公重耳即位之前,曾有过一段流亡各国、饥饿困顿的时期,跟随他的介子推不惜从自己的腿上割肉以奉才使他渡过难关。后来重耳回国即位,大肆封赏当年的从龙之臣,唯有介子推拒绝接受封赏,带着母亲隐居绵山。晋文公烧山以逼迫他出山,不料却将介子推母子烧死在山中。为了纪念介子推,晋文公下令每年的这一天禁止生火,家家户户只能吃生冷的食物。就如同端午吃粽子纪念屈原,人们用“不动烟火”来纪念介子推。
  下面是清明的十四道传统美食。


  壹·青团子
  清明时节,江南一带有吃青团子的风俗习惯。青团子是用一种名叫“浆麦草”的野生植物捣烂后挤压出汁,接着取用这种汁同晾干后的水磨纯糯米粉拌匀揉和,然后开始制作团子。团子的馅心是用细腻的糖豆沙制成,在包馅时,另放入一小块糖猪油。团坯制好后,将它们入笼蒸熟,出笼时用毛刷将熟菜油均匀地刷在团子的表面,这便大功告成了。


  贰·艾粄
  客家人有句老话,叫“清明前后吃艾粄,一年四季不生病”。艾粄是清明节客家人必备的传统小食。首先是将采摘回来的鲜嫩艾草洗净,放锅中煮熟后捞起,沥干水份,煮艾草的水要保留备用。然后将煮熟的艾草剁成草泥,草泥剁得越细越烂越好。艾草泥剁好后,用煮艾草的水,加上糯米粉一齐和拌成团。然后把准备好的芝麻、眉豆、花生等馅料包进面团里,再封口捏成圆形、长形等形状,放入锅中隔水蒸15-20分钟后即可出炉。


  叁·馓子
  我国南北各地清明节有吃馓子的食俗。“馓子”为一油炸食品,香脆精美,古时叫“寒具”。寒食节禁火寒食的风俗在我国大部分地区已不流行,但与这个节日有关的馓子却深受世人的喜爱。现在流行于汉族地区的馓子有南北方的差异:北方馓子大方洒脱,以麦面为主料;南方馓子精巧细致,多以米面为主料。


  肆·鸡蛋
  民间习俗认为,清明节吃个鸡蛋,一整年都有好身体。清明节吃鸡蛋其源起是先秦时代某些地区有禁火习俗,多日的禁火寒食,煮熟的鸡蛋是度过这一时期的最好的食品储备。清明节这天鸡蛋除了吃,还可以玩,大致分为两种,一种是“画蛋”,另一种则是“雕蛋”。画的五颜六色鸡蛋可以吃;而“雕蛋”则仅供玩赏。


  伍·子推馍
  “子推馍”,又称老馍馍,类似古代武将的头盔,重约250—500克。里面包鸡蛋或红枣,上面有顶子。顶子四周贴面花。面花是面塑的小馍,形状有燕、虫、蛇、兔或文房四宝。圆形的“子推馍”是专给男人们享用的。已婚妇女吃条形的“梭子馍”,未婚姑娘则吃“抓髻馍”。孩子们有燕、蛇、兔、虎等面花。“大老虎”专给男孩子吃,也最受他们喜欢。


  陆·朴籽粿
  制作朴籽粿,首先将朴籽树叶和果实(核)捣烂,与大米舂成粉末,然后发酵再配糖,最后再用陶模型蒸或梅花模型蒸熟而成。一般朴籽粿有梅花型和桃型两种,也有叫碗酵桃的。蒸熟的朴籽为草绿色,个个咧开嘴大笑,总是给人春天很美好的感觉。粿品呈浅绿色,味甚甘甜,据说吃了还可解积热,除疾病。


  柒·芥菜饭
  清明时节,闽东各地无论城乡,大多有吃芥菜的食俗。据说每年二月二吃了用芥菜和大米混煮的“芥菜饭”可以终年不长疥疮。也有在三月三,煮泥鳅面祭祖送人习俗。


  捌·枣糕
  枣糕又叫“子推饼”,北方一些地方用酵糟发面,夹枣蒸食。他们还习惯将枣饼制成飞燕形,用柳条串起挂在门上,可以冷食,以纪念介子推不求名利的高尚品质。糕就是谷物类,谷物类加上枣,符合春季养生增甘的目的,可以增加脾的功能来限制一下肝气过分的往外张扬。


  玖·子福
  晋中一带还保留着清明前一日禁火的习惯。很多地方在完成祭祀仪式后,将祭祀食品分吃。晋南人过清明时,习惯用白面蒸大馍,中间夹有核桃、枣儿、豆子,外面盘成龙形,龙身中间扎一个鸡蛋,名为“子福”。要蒸一个很大的总“子福”,象征全家团圆幸福。上坟时,将总“子福”献给祖灵,扫墓完毕后全家分食之。


  拾·菠菠粿
  清明节前后,福州家家户户都要做菠菠粿,如今,街上“米时”粿店也大量出售菠菠粿。是用菠菠菜(生长于南方的一种野菜,可食,味甘,性凉,捣烂压成汁呈青绿色)压榨成汁,渗入米浆内揉成粿皮,以枣泥、豆沙、萝卜丝等为馅捏制而成的。造型比较简单,菠菠菜的青绿色赋予菠菠粿以春天的绿意。


  拾壹·欢喜团
  四川成都一带有以炒米作团,用线穿之,或大或小,各色点染,名曰“欢喜团”。旧时,在成都北门外至“欢喜庵”一路摆卖。清人《绵城竹枝词》有诗云:“‘欢喜庵’前欢喜团,春郊买食百忧宽。村醪戏比金生丽,偏有多人醉脚盆。”


  拾贰·乌稔饭
  另外,关于清明食俗,不能不提到畲家的“乌稔饭”,因为闽东是畲族聚居地。每年三月初三,畲族人家家户户煮“乌稔饭”,并馈赠汉族的亲戚朋友,久而久之,当地的汉族人民也有了清明时食“乌稔饭”的习俗。特别是枯荣县民间,每年都须用“乌稔饭”祭祀,可见我国自古以来就是一个民族和睦相处的大家庭。


  拾叁·润饼菜
  每到清明时节,泉州人有吃“润饼菜”的风俗。据说,这是古时寒食节食俗之遗风。泉州的“润饼菜”是以面粉为原料擦制烘成薄皮,俗称“润饼”或“擦饼”,食时铺开饼皮,再卷胡萝卜丝、肉丝、蚵煎、芜荽等混锅菜肴,制食皆简单,吃起来甜润可口。


  拾肆·粽子
  最初吃粽子不是端午,而是清明前一天的寒食。到现在,塘栖、长兴、吴江一带仍盛行清明吃粽子的风俗。如今粽子更是千品百种,璀灿纷呈。现今各地的粽子,一般都用箬壳包糯米,但内涵花色则根据各地特产和风俗而定,著名的有桂圆粽、肉粽、水晶粽、莲蓉粽、蜜饯粽、板栗粽、辣粽、酸菜粽、火腿粽、咸蛋粽等等。


  十四道春天的滋味,来自不同地方的清明美食,他们各具特色,又都糅入了万物初生时节的清新味道,就算没机会一一品尝,看着这些淡雅的水彩,心情似乎也变得轻快飞扬起来。

——插图:C 爱米粒儿
——文字:麦麦节气
——出处:麦麦节气

——关于【走遍中国】
  走遍中国,是一个介绍中国非主流性质的旅游地为主的栏目。这些目的地往往被爱好热闹的游客所忽视,但我们希望能够以极简的文字和图片,为您奉上中国这些大小角落里被错过的美,希望给你的旅途增添些与众不同的情趣和亮点。

清明美食景点介绍


关于清明节

  清明节又叫踏青节,在仲春与暮春之交,也就是冬至后的第108天。是中国传统节日,也是最重要的祭祀节日之一,是祭祖和扫墓的日子。中国汉族传统的清明节大约始于周代,距今已有二千五百多年的历史。受汉族文化的影响,中国的满族、赫哲族、壮族、鄂伦春族、侗族、土家族、苗族、瑶族、黎族、水族、京族、羌族等24个少数民族,也都有过清明节的习俗。扫墓祭祖、踏青郊游是基本主题。
  清明最早只是一种节气的名称,其变成纪念祖先的节日与寒食节有关。晋文公把寒食节的后一天定为清明节。在山西大部分地区是在清明节前一天过寒食节;榆社县等地是在清明节前两天过寒食节;垣曲县还讲究清明节前一天为寒食节,前二天为小寒食。
  清明节是中国重要的“时年八节”之一,一般是在公历4月5号前后,节期很长,有10日前8日后及10日前10日后两种说法,这近20天内均属清明节。清明节原是指春分后十五天,1935年中华民国政府明定4月5日为国定假日清明节,也叫做民族扫墓节。


清明节的那些古老习俗

  清明节的习俗除了讲究禁火、扫墓,还有踏青、荡秋千、蹴鞠、打马球、插柳等一系列风俗体育活动。相传这是因为寒食节要寒食禁火,为了防止寒食冷餐伤身,所以大家来参加一些体育活动,来锻炼身体。清明节,民间忌使针,忌洗衣,大部分地区妇女忌行路。傍晚以前,要在大门前洒一条灰线,据说可以阻止鬼魂进宅。 因此,这个节日中既有祭扫新坟生离死别的悲酸泪,又有踏青游玩的欢笑声,是一个富有特色的节日。

  荡秋千
  这是中国古代清明节习俗。五代王仁裕《开元天宝遗事》载“天宝宫中至寒食节竟竖秋千,令宫嫔辈戏笑以为宴乐。帝呼为半仙之戏,都中士民因而呼之”,宋代宰相文彦博诗《寒食日过龙门》,诗中描写为 “桥边杨柳垂青线,林立秋千挂彩绳。”秋千,意即揪着皮绳而迁移。它的历史很古老,最早叫千秋,后为了避忌讳,改之为秋千。古时的秋千多用树桠枝为架,再拴上彩带做成。后来逐步发展为用两根绳索加上踏板的秋千。荡秋千不仅可以增进健康,而且可以培养勇敢精神,至今为人们特别是儿童所喜爱。

  蹴鞠
  鞠是一种皮球,球皮用皮革做成,球内用毛塞紧。蹴鞠,就是用足去踢球。这是古代清明节时人们喜爱的一种游戏。相传是黄帝发明的,最初目的是用来训练武士。打马球,也是端午之戏之一。马球,是骑在马上,持棍打球,古称击鞠。三国曹植《名都篇》中有“连翩击鞠壤”之句。唐代长安,有宽大的球场,玄宗、敬宗等皇帝均喜马球。章怀太子墓中《马球图》,画出了唐代马球的兴盛:画上,二十多匹骏马飞驰,马尾扎结起来,打球者头戴幞巾,足登长靴,手持球杖逐球相击。《析津志》记辽国把打马球作为节日的传统风俗,于端午、重九击球。《金史·礼志》也记金人于端午击球。宋代有“打球乐”舞队。至明代,马球仍流行。

  踏青
  又叫春游。古时叫探春、寻春等。四月清明,春回大地,自然界到处呈现一派生机勃勃的景象,正是郊游的大好时光。中国民间长期保持着清明踏青的习惯。

  植树
  清明前后,春阳照临,春雨飞洒,种植树苗成活率高,成长快。因此,自古以来,中国就有清明植树的习惯。有人还把清明节叫作“植树节”。植树风俗一直流传至今。
  清明节植树的习俗,发端于清明戴柳插柳的风俗。关于清明戴柳插柳,有三种传说。最古老的传说,是说为了纪念教民稼穑耕作的祖师—神农氏,后来由此发展出祈求长寿的意蕴。再晚点的传说与介子推有关。据说晋文公率众臣登山祭奠介子推时,发现介子推死前曾经靠过的老柳树死而复活,便赐老柳树为“清明柳”。更晚点的传说是唐太宗给大臣柳圈,以示赐福驱疫。

  放风筝
  放风筝也是清明时节人们所喜爱的活动。每逢清明时节,人们不仅白天放,夜间也放。夜里在风筝下或风稳拉线上挂上一串串彩色的小灯笼,像闪烁的明星,被称为“神灯”。过去,有的人把风筝放上蓝天后,便剪断牵线,任凭清风把它们送往天涯海角,据说这样能除病消灾,给自己带来好运。


  扫墓
  清明扫墓,谓之对祖先的“思时之敬”。其习俗由来已久。明《帝京景物略》载:“三月清明日,男女扫墓,担提尊榼,轿马后挂楮锭,粲粲然满道也。拜者、酹者、哭者、为墓除草添土者,焚楮锭次,以纸钱置坟头。望中无纸钱,则孤坟矣。哭罢,不归也,趋芳树,择园圃,列坐尽醉。”其实,扫墓在秦以前就有了,但不一定是在清明之际,清明扫墓则是秦以后的事。到唐朝才开始盛行。并相传至今。

  插柳
  清明节,中国民间有插柳习俗。据说,插柳的风俗,是为了纪念“教民稼穑”的农事祖师神农氏的。有的地方,人们把柳枝插在屋檐下,以预报天气,古谚有“柳条青,雨蒙蒙;柳条干,晴了天”的说法。杨柳有强大的生命力,俗话说:“有心栽花花不发,无心插柳柳成荫。”柳条插土就活,插到哪里,活到哪里,年年插柳,处处成荫。

  蚕花会
  “蚕花会”是蚕乡一种特有的民俗文化,过去清明节期间,梧桐、乌镇、崇福、洲泉等地都有此项民俗活动。其中以洲泉的马鸣庙和青石的双庙诸的蚕花会最为精彩隆重。马鸣庙位于洲泉镇西,在当地有“庙中之王”之称,每年蚕花会人山人海,活动频繁,有迎蚕神、摇快船、闹台阁、拜香凳、打拳、龙灯、翘高竿、唱戏文等十多项活动。这些活动有的在岸上进行,绝大多数在船上进行,极具水乡特色。

清明美食其他信息


(山西介休绵山的介子推像   作者:佚名)
介之推的传说
  相传春秋时期,晋公子重耳为逃避迫害而流亡国外,流亡途中,在一处渺无人烟的地方,又累又饿,再也无力站起来。随臣找了半天也找不到一点吃的,正在大家万分焦急的时候,随臣介子推走到僻静处,从自己的大腿上割下了一块肉,煮了一碗肉汤让公子喝了,重耳渐渐恢复了精神,当重耳发现肉是介子推自己腿割下的时候,流下了眼泪。
  十九年后,重耳作了国君,也就是历史上的晋文公。即位后文公重重赏了当初伴随他流亡的功臣,唯独忘了介子推。很多人为介子推鸣不平,劝他面君讨赏,然而介子推最鄙视那些争功讨赏的人。他打好行装,同悄悄的到绵山隐居去了。
  晋文公听说后,羞愧莫及,亲自带人去请介子推 ,然而介子推已离家去了绵山。绵山山高路险,树木茂密,找寻两个人谈何容易,有人献计,从三面火烧绵山,逼出介子推。 大火烧遍绵山,却没见介子推的身影,火熄后,人们才发现背着老母亲的介子推已坐在一棵老柳树下死了。晋文公见状,恸哭。装殓时,从树洞里发现一血书,上写道:“割肉奉君尽丹心,但愿主公常清明。”为纪念介子推,晋文公下令将这一天定为寒食节。
  第二年晋文公率众臣登山祭奠,发现老柳树死而复活。便赐老柳树为”清明柳“,并晓谕天下,把寒食节的后一天定为清明节。

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