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震撼!你肯定不知道的山西十大民间古堡!——2016年山西古堡建筑巡游专题

发布时间:2016年05月19日 编辑:鸾七 访问:35450 评论:10条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 山西 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 轻松
适合天数: 5-10天 花费预算: 2500元 适合时间: 全年
可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 山西 古堡 建筑 历史 文化 摄影 皇城相府 郭峪 张壁 师家沟 梁家堡 砥洎城 ◎切换到无图简洁版


  中国人对于古堡的印象多来自国外,特别是欧洲的古堡,那些依傍在山水间的高大石头建筑不仅是明信片上的常客,更是欧式“古典浪漫”的最佳代言。然而很少人留意,在中国内地也有着数量繁多的古堡,而国内古堡存量最大、分布最密集、品质最高的地区就在山西。
  山西古堡这种半民用半军用的特殊建筑形式,如遗珠般依然默默矗立在乡野间,历经岁月雕琢,展现着难得一见的“天然去雕饰”之美。
  山西十大民间古堡包括: 平遥堡村、介休张堡、灵石梁家堡、汾西师家沟、翼城西阎村、沁水柳家堡、沁水湘峪堡、阳城砥洎城、阳城黄城郭峪、泽州圣母玫瑰堂。

平遥 堡村:平遥大院东向东
   对于许多平遥古城周边的乡民来讲,平遥这个大堡垒只是将他们一直居住的小堡垒放大了十几倍而已。对于旅行者来讲,如果嫌平遥已不自然,又想在了解古代城市后还想了解这里古代的乡村,便可去古城东南5公里处的岳壁镇。

  走入古城东南5公里处的岳壁镇后,晨曦中的田园平凡而诱人,村落都分布在起伏的黄土地的高台地上,被树林簇拥着。看得出所有的老村从前都是堡村,有防御性的外围墙。岳中村的堡墙轮廓完整,局部还残留雉堞。内部格局也很完整,丁字型主街上分布着几座小神庙,横竖街交叉处是村内李氏家族的宗祠。这是堡村一种典型格局。

  岳中村东南2公里的梁村,是由6个独立的堡挤在一起形成的大村,每个堡都有高大的堡门,门前的巨树标志着古堡的久远历史,堡门为2层,上层供保护神像。门内主巷道两侧也多为2层高的院墙,一般在离堡门很远的地方才开院门,且院门很少,这有增强防御性的考虑,也有古代里坊制度的遗痕,恐怕还有风水上的讲究。
       
  虽然没有乔家等那些著名大院豪华,但堡村内也不乏精美的院落,只是每个院落分属于各个中产阶级家庭,互不贯通,故没有富商大院那种侯门深深深几许的感觉。然堡村有自己独特的美感,除了自然古朴以外,它们有古堡特有的一种静穆,厚重单纯的砖墙因风雨侵蚀而表情丰富,封闭压抑的空间因战火消融而珍存住了灵气,这都使它们虽身在世界遗产的屋檐下,而可以像人们对古堡一般性的印象那样高昂着头,因为它们就是古堡,即使没有高高的塔楼,没有漂亮的碉楼。


介休 张壁:麻雀小城藏暗道
  赵壁、张壁这些地名中的“壁”字都是坞壁的遗痕。山西这片黄土地不很肥沃,又处在关中、漠北至中原的通道上,战事很多,本会是个穷地方。然而与此同时,土地贫瘠加之地少人多就逼着人想别的办法挣钱,而战争的通道也是经商的通道,加上人的精明勤奋,所以古代山西的商业、手工业异常发达,不仅富商众多,中产阶级也不少。为了生命财产安全,古人修起堡垒,一有兵匪,坚壁清野,虽不能安枕无忧,但也只能这样尽力而为。
       
  张壁古堡远看很低平,近看才知它三面都有深沟,只有南门前地势较平,也有小河流过。南门右侧一座高台上布满建筑,其一半突出堡外,像是南门的瓮城,一半嵌在堡内,台上的建筑是关帝庙、魁星阁、可汗祠。南门内是堡内主街,向北对着另一座高台,上面的建筑有真武庙、吕祖堂、二郎庙等,两座高台上都有戏台,主街上还有祠堂和其它寺庙,中国古代城镇的构造中心往往由神灵空间统筹,但像张壁这样强烈、隆重的神灵轴线还不多见。


  一般来讲,坐北朝南的中国北方古建筑群体都是南低北高,但张壁是北低南高,人从古堡正面进入堡内后越走越低的感觉很强烈。
  张壁虽有高墙深壑,但其更重要的防御系统是地道,这里要是展开地道战,精彩程度应不逊于电影。张壁的地道有3层,是个庞大的立体网络,地面上用各种隐蔽方式连通每座庙宇民居,亦有出口通向堡外,地道总长近万米,最深处20余米。



灵石 梁家堡:山地古堡竞风流
  梁家堡始建于明万历年间,与山西大多数古堡一样,与明末战事密切相关。与临近著名的王家大院方方正正的造型不同,灵石夏门镇的梁家堡依山就势而建,设计灵活,没有成规。

  汾河流经夏门时西岸有一小段临河是峭壁的山岗,梁家堡便建于其上。为了让古堡顶端与汾河水仍有亲密接触,梁家在河边依峭壁直上直下地建了座40多米高的百尺楼,楼底层为安全只开一小门,楼梯段各层的开窗越高越多,越高越大,直至顶层变成敞廊,以将山河风光收进堡内。这座凌河孓立的宽大砖楼也成为梁家堡的标志。


  古堡的正门在南面,经过两层楼的关帝庙进入头道堡门,拾阶而上,眼前景物步移景异。从河边看古堡是幅凝固的画面,堡内则是流动的影像。一会儿一座飞虹般的小桥掠过头顶,一会儿一座高墙横在眼前,而一转角又柳暗花明,你永远猜不到下一步的影像是什么。因为古堡损毁比较严重,下一步可能是惊喜,也可能又是怅然,然而不论如何,这是座中国罕见的、地地道道的山地古堡,不仅仅因为它有高大壁垒,它的美也不仅来自古老,而是它自身确实漂亮,煤灰和破败都掩盖不住的漂亮。


汾西 师家沟:窑洞重重多几许
  师家沟是一座山地堡村,主要由窑洞形房舍层层叠叠构成,始建于清代乾隆年间,它的防御性稍弱,即使如此,村外围也是高大封闭的,村口有高大的窑壁堵住爬上堡村所在的山坡的路,想进村要穿过一条20米长的隧道,据说村内各院落间还有暗道、地洞相通。
       
  到师家沟首先看到一座雕刻精美的大石牌坊,清咸丰年间之物,诰封师氏家族的几位夫人,属贞节牌坊。从字迹看几位夫人的丈夫的头衔都是“儒林郎”之类拿钱捐来的虚衔,可得知师家主要是商人。牌坊后的坡道是后来开的,从前村堡正门有座石柱大门,现只残留石柱。师家沟最精彩之处在其窑洞,石柱门内三面四层的窑洞院蔚为壮观,另外还有几座高大的窑洞院,院中正房充分展现出窑洞的精彩。


  从师家沟对面的山坡上可俯瞰其全貌,一排排阶梯式的窑洞铺满整个山坡,那气势不逊于意大利的世界遗产马泰拉古镇,只是马泰拉的窑洞历史更久远。


翼城 西闫村:罕见塔门文昌阁
  西闫村藏在中条山深处一座汾河流域与沁河流域的分水岭上,村口是名为“凤翼门”的堡门,穿过门下层的拱券,主街尽头一座高塔引人注目,走近一看,那是一座奇特的塔门,塔门细高,塔下还有穿越形的门洞。欧洲古堡和教堂中有塔门,但并不常见,藏传佛教的寺庙和穆斯林的清真寺中也有几例,在汉地这似乎是第一次见到。塔应是文昌阁,门是开在主街上的一道巷门或称坊门。底层券门兼任塔座,塔身共5层,下4层都是砖体,从下至上的形状分别是四边形、八角形、圆形、六角抹边形,顶层是木结构的六角亭,为了一座文昌阁的样子如此费尽心思,无外乎是希望村里能多出些考得功名的人,读书改变命运的道理中国人很早就懂。
       
  塔门内的巷子里有座庙宇,庙门是所谓“民国式”的,门匾上则刻着“红旗食堂”4字,看来是“大跃进”遗物。村内还有数座大院,因为在山区,取石方便,不少房子是石墙,增强了这座山村的沧桑感。

  村口有座碑亭,亭中石碑上刻的是抗战时参军的西阎村子弟的名单,有近百人。抗战时的中条山之战中国军队伤亡巨大,这些新兵中的不少人恐怕刚穿上军装就阵亡了。稍可欣慰的是,家乡还留下这么一块石碑刻下了他们的名字。抗战八年,山西几乎一直是前线,那些民间的古堡有时用于打鬼子,有时被鬼子占据当炮楼,能留下来实属不易。
       


沁水 柳家堡:前庭后苑派头足
  柳家堡现存7座完整的院落以及明清残院12座。这些庭院建筑形制大致相仿,皆为四合院式。院门偏于一角,多为坤、巽、艮门。完整宅第的大门均有牌楼装饰和石狮石鼓相镇。院内东、西、南、北四面为两层楼阁式建筑。其中北房为高阶台,宽走廊。每院四角又另有一小院,房屋两间。这种建筑形制俗称“四大八小式”。

  柳宗元是山西永济人,据说他因搞改革而遭到人身攻击后,其族人至少有一支迁入中条山,落脚在现在历山脚下的西兴村,繁衍至明代,成为当地的巨族,在陆陆续续的建设下,柳家堡成为一处有内外府的庞大私宅。

  柳家堡也建在一座山梁上,山梁西面的河溪是沁河的一条支流。在建筑手法上,柳家堡没有采用夏门梁家堡那种随坡就势、层层叠加的形式,而是先将山梁顶部的护坡修整成一个高台,周边垒起陡峭的护坡,加上高大的外墙,便形成了极好的防御性,高台前后只有两条坡道供上下,坡道尽端都有高大的门楼,内部也有地道、暗墙。

  柳家堡内外府的格局颇有中国古代的大型管制建筑前庭后苑、前署后宅的气势,外府的空间大多是献给各路神灵的,有宗祠、虞帝庙、文庙、关帝庙等。内府原有13座宅院,现存7座。内外府间的巷道上有两座石牌坊,造型古朴浑厚中有精细,3层的石雕斗拱精细程度不逊木作。柳家肯定有人钟爱斗拱,内府的“行邀天宠”门楼上的木斗拱是5层,而“司马第”门楼上有9层。


  柳家堡内另外一个绝活是藏有朱熹、王阳明、文徵明、王国光等名人的几十通书法碑,俨然一座私家碑林。柳家是大文豪的后裔,家中自然要着重体现文化的地位,堡内不仅有文昌阁,还有魁星楼,通常一座城镇也只在二者选建其一。两座高楼还与古堡的防御功能结合起来,魁星楼实际上充当了堡门,文昌阁守卫着内府。


沁水 湘峪堡:机关算尽太聪明
  湘峪河是沁河的一条支流,湘峪村建在河北岸一段和陡的山壁上。第一眼看到湘峪古堡时,很难不被它震撼,比夏门梁家堡百尺楼矮不了多少的城墙临水而立,宽300米,相当于10座百尺楼。楼上多为二三层楼房的民居鳞次栉比,更有塔楼林立,这些高塔有堡门、角楼、碉楼、插花楼等,还有西侧紧邻的东岳庙的钟鼓楼,共有十四五座,如此景象,实可谓壮观。

  现在有座石桥通正面居中的南门,进门后马上要上台阶,上到一个平台后,左右两侧各有窄巷,进窄巷一看才知,那高大的城墙还有内外两重,窄巷连通的两重墙层面都是藏兵洞,外重的上层是墙顶马道,内重的二三层楼高出外重顶部,有窗口可以向外放箭放枪。算上外重藏兵洞的向外窗口、外重马道,共有3层向外攻击的作业面,而且外敌即使攻入外墙也无济于事,他们只能在窄巷中挨打,这道窄巷相当于一条窄长的瓮城,如此防御设计还是第一次见到。再上一段台阶才上到古堡内的主台地上,除了南门楼前有一小块宽敞的地外,堡内全是窄巷,窄巷上空有许多过街楼i,看来,湘峪人把巷战的准备也做好了。


  如此机关算尽的堡垒也没有保护住孙居相,他是万历朝的著名御史,但他得罪了崇祯皇帝,崇祯七年,就在湘峪堡建成之时,他死在贬所。其弟孙鼎相在四兄弟中排行第三,曾任副都御史,据说因为他的宅院称三都堂,湘峪古堡也被称作三都古城。现在堡内最显眼的5层大碉楼就在孙鼎相的宅院内。孙居相的宅院损毁严重,万历赐建的石牌坊也只剩残柱。


阳城 砥洎城:圆形古堡砥柱中流
  砥洎城建于明末,城的正门在南面,门上十几米高的城墙在门左侧有凸出,利于城门防守。进门后,左手边有蹬道上可看清城墙高处的蜂窝状的东西是古代冶铁用的坩埚,古代此间冶铁业兴盛,用废坩埚筑城墙不仅废物利用,墙也坚固。

  城内的格局和湘峪堡类似,窄巷中有很多过街楼,巷口有坊门。堡内最高大的宅院也位于最高处,房子上还有一座最高的插花楼,这种楼俗称看家楼,远望古堡时,显眼的那座高塔就是这座看家楼,它对古堡的轮廓线贡献巨大。宅院的主人是清代著名数学家张敦仁,为砥洎城所出的三位进士之一。
       
  张敦仁宅后就是北部的临水城墙,城墙分高低两层,上层同时兼当城堡主台地的护坡,与两层城墙间的台地有10米高的落差,外层城墙与水面还有20多米的落差,上有水门直通水道,内侧密布藏兵洞。


阳城 皇城&郭峪:黄衣加身气轩昂
  皇城相府是目前山西古堡中总体品质最高的一个,且对其对面的郭峪村还有两座古堡,形成一个壮观的古堡群。

  黄城村陈家堡因康熙皇帝来过而得名皇城,因陈廷敬官至尚书,受封大学士又得名相府,从而名声大噪。然而,正如来此地的人一般都是先看到郭峪一样,此地也是先有郭峪,或者说开始时只有郭峪。从各古堡所处的位置也可以看出郭峪与皇城相府的先后,此古堡群坐落在一条大体为南北走向的山谷中,樊溪从中流过,郭峪朝东偏南,背山面水,负阴抱阳,皇城相府反之。
       
  崇祯年间,关中已大乱,陈家颇具先见之明地在新居边建了一座7层高碉楼,名“山河楼”,崇祯5年,关中王自用部队血洗郭峪,多亏了山河楼保全了陈家和郭峪村部分乡亲的性命。此后,郭峪人在一位张姓进士、一位王姓富商的主持下,逐步建立起藏兵洞的城墙和一座名为“豫楼“的大碉楼,将村庄变为堡垒。兵匪一走,陈家便筑起了一圈也带藏兵洞的高墙,将新宅和山河楼围起来,形成了所谓内城“斗筑居”。斗筑居大体呈长方形,依山势而建,颇有立体感,形态与王家大院类似,斗筑居中还有高大碉楼,这个细节使得城堡的形态更为突出,加上在陈廷敬显贵后,陈家又开始兴建外城“中道庄”,外城的平缓与内城的陡峭的对比,外城的不规则与内城的方正的对比,形成错落有致的轮廓和丰富的空间层次,终于造就出这座雄浑美丽的古堡。


  郭峪村中的汤帝庙体量巨大。郭峪村的高塔是豫楼,教堂便是汤帝庙。汤帝庙本身又像是高大古堡中的小古堡,高大门楼左右有更高大的钟鼓楼,外墙顶上有环道,这样,外墙成了城墙,钟鼓楼成了角楼。


泽州 圣母玫瑰堂:古堡教堂朦胧美
  从晋城至泽州大箕镇的公路与古时的晋豫古道基本重合,大箕镇是当时古道上繁华的商镇,镇边一片谷地上,一座小山兀然孤立,不知何时,山顶上长出了一座古堡,古堡里还有一座教堂,这在中国恐怕是绝无仅有。

  那座叫圣母玫瑰教堂是1914年荷兰传教士建立,亲眼看古堡,其墙体所经的岁月远不止一百年。另外此处还有个地名叫小寨,或许是因为这小古堡而得名,因为古代常将堡成为寨。再深入的情况,至今仍是一片朦胧。


  如今年轻人结婚前不仅要拍婚纱照,还要到教堂去照,这倒不是因为有那种信仰,只是因为那种仪式浪漫得诱人。圣母玫瑰教堂前有片土地,如果里面开满玫瑰花,真是个照婚纱照的好地方。现在地里种的玉米,也别有风情。

山西古堡其他信息


那年那堡那些事儿
  唐代以前,黄河流域就是古堡的世界。那时不称堡,称坞壁。两汉多士族,魏晋多门阀,大户人家均需建坞壁来自卫和彰显家族势力。士族、门阀势力在武则天时代被大大削弱,民间建坞壁在大一统社会中一直有建土围子之嫌,所以后来官方的城池增多而民间的坞壁变少。坞壁一称也逐步改称堡、寨。官府或反官府的各种人建的堡、寨均有实际军事用途,但普遍缺乏建筑美,也容易遭毁坏、废弃,一般民居则忌讳自行设防。然而在乱世时或天高皇帝远官府无力治理的地区,官府又不介意甚至鼓励民间自行建堡,中国现存古堡较多的地区有北方农牧交界线沿线和南方闽粤赣诸省沿海和山区等,这些地区的古堡就是在这种情况下产生,并长久作为民居得到使用、维护、美化而存留下来的。
  山西存世古堡众多,有几个原因。首先,历史上山西多战事,而山西地形多山,局部封闭,当地居民利用地势筑堡可以有效地自保,不似开敞的平原地区,小堡垒在乱世时没什么用。其次,山西胡汉混居的特点显著。人类历史有一个特征:纯农耕人爱筑大城,而游牧或半农半牧人爱筑城堡。其中原因很复杂,但农耕人口多而游牧人口少是最明显的一个因素。可以将城堡理解为小城,因为它小,加上游牧人四海为家惯了,即使定居了心也不甘静默,心和眼都需要远眺。当堡垒需要发展的时候其建筑就倾向在高度上而不是在水平面上求发展,堡垒因此增强了立体感,造型上避免了大城池的平淡。山西地处农牧二区间的通道上,战乱和游牧民族聚居导致此地古堡多并好看。另外,许多山西古堡建于明末乱世,至清代,官府容忍这些民间堡垒继续存在并壮大,不知与满族统治者具有的游牧天性是否有关。再次,明清晋商崛起,使民间建高质量大堡的能力增强。著名的晋商大院本都是堡,如乔家大院所在的村至今仍称乔家堡村,王家大院本名恒贞堡。可能因为其主人更追求家族形象正统、主流,这些堡府第的气息更重。
  目前山西各地都留有古堡,分布相对集中的地区有雁北、晋中、晋南。雁北的古堡多是与长城防线结合的纯军事或半军事戍堡,那里可见壮阔、苍茫的北国风光,缺点是多为废墟、遗迹,旅行线路漫长险峻。晋中、晋南的古堡多为民居用古堡,保护较好,分布相对更集中,并与众多古城、大院交织在一起。
  在古代,河流在社会生活中作用远比今日巨大,农田灌溉、水路运输均依赖河流,陆路也常伴河而生,所以河流沿线的古代生活是最生动的。山西汾河沁水的两河流域,曾是中国最早的农垦地带,人口混杂,城市兴旺,也因此保存下大量古堡式民居建筑群,其中有些已广为人知,如介休的张壁古堡和阳城皇城相府,而更多的古堡和古堡群则至今都极少有人问津,甚至无典可查、无据可考,然而这并不意味着它们最终只能被历史的黄沙所掩埋,只是由于各种原因,它们暂时还被“养于深闺”。

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