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止锚湾,晚夏的那片静海——2012年辽宁省绥中县止锚湾海滨自助游攻略

发布时间:2012年08月23日 编辑:大元 访问:27977 评论:29条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 辽宁 绥中 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 轻松
适合天数: 2天 花费预算: 500元 适合时间: 6月 7月 8月 9月 10月
可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 止锚湾 ◎切换到无图简洁版


(碣石  作者:高兴77)
  一到夏天,就想去海边,吹海风,泡海浴,吃海鲜,但一想到夏季海滨乌泱乌泱的人群就我又失去了玩耍的心情,无法忍受海边的嘈杂和下饺子似的高密度场面,这个晚夏,朋友提议了一个冷僻而又好听的名字——止锚湾——据说那是一片未被开发,安静得只有海鸥和渔船的海湾。据说那里曾是东北最富庶的渔港,尘封着秦皇汉武东巡祭海的行宫和孟姜女投海殉情的动人故事。
  一切都是纯天然,至今依旧保存着至真至纯的模样,也许只有那辆大巴车和我们在这个纯粹中显得不那么和谐,反倒是那些渔民,他们属于这里,黝黑发亮的肌肤是属于这里的。慢慢走进水中,温度合适,脚下的沙细细滑滑的,有被海水冲刷而成的波纹,走了快三百米,水才刚刚到肩膀。被海水拥抱着,见不到几个游人,所有工作生活中的不快都被轻轻的海风吹散,心也沉静下去,舒展四肢在水中游着,可以想事情也可以什么都不想。海风如女子的手轻抚着面颊,天高、波绿、风盈,便微微的醉了。游的累了,坐在海边的太阳伞下吃小吃,看着朋友在浅滩捉蛤蜊或躺在沙滩上小憩,几个孩子套着救生圈在浅浅的海水中起起伏伏,两只小狗女主人的呼喊下表演着狗刨,嘻嘻哈哈的笑声不断。继而想当年秦始皇东巡止于此,一定是也被这美丽的海湾所留,如远航的船都要在这里停靠抛锚。

(晚霞  作者:cxxy0959)
  晚饭后,放完烟花再去海边,止锚湾的浅夜,只能闻得见涛声在摸索前行。夜晚的浪平缓了,天空也似大海,幽深幽深的。站在码头听见海浪与礁石的碰撞,发出震耳欲聋的哗哗声和喁喁的海的絮语。星星点灯,使人觉得海的深沉莫测。而海的早晨则是清幽静谧的,赶个大早看海上日出,一轮红日从海上徐徐升起,第一次看到这样美丽的日出和这样透明的海,为了那一瞬的晨光,寂静的清晨,朝霞冲破蔚蓝云隙,迸射出橘色的光影,晨烟下的山峦,清晰而神秘,晨曦下的海面,静谧、温暖,让人想拥有一份海一般沉勇的性情。
  退潮了,我拣了贝壳、海菜、海螺等,想象着把这海的韵味带回去。止锚湾,不久的将来可能会开发建设成海港,改变今日的容颜,不如赶着夏天的尾巴,在她变了模样之前,面朝大海,春暖花开。
  (文字作者:蝶舞)


快乐的徜徉  作者:佚名


赶海拾贝  作者:cxxy0959


打渔归来  作者:cxxy0959


废弃的渔船  作者:慢慢长大

 海浪轻抚的沙滩 作者:慢慢长大

海星  作者:cxxy0959


止锚湾的日出  作者:猫猫


放孔明灯  作者:原始次生林


最后的静海  作者:原始次生林


烧烤聚会  作者:wawadelia


海的暇思  作者:佚名


海上升明月  作者:佚名

 海滩营地 作者:佚名

劳作的渔民们  作者:佚名

止锚湾景点介绍


(海浪逐沙滩  作者:cxxy0959)
   止锚湾与山海关、北戴河一脉相承,同属一片海滨,但这里深藏未露,淳朴天然,没有过多的人工斧凿气息或商业行为,游客的自由度很高,不用担心有管理人员过来破坏气氛。无风无浪时海水清澈见底,海里的沙子大多顺滑细腻,径直往大海里走几百米都未必能让海水漫过肩膀。
  沙滩相对人少,地域空阔,可以组织沙滩足球对抗赛等。夜晚海滩会有人放烟火、孔明灯等,还可能遇到篝火晚会、烧烤聚餐等。止锚湾的日出日落很美,适合住上一晚。礁石群将沙滩分割成一个又一个单元,适合垂钓。
  "止锚湾"地名由来已久,一说是因过往的船只经过此处,被这里的美景吸引,便决然抛锚停泊。自此之后,慕名而来的船只纷纷落锚而至,后成了良港渔村,称为"止锚湾";另一说,因为那的水非常浅,锚都不用抛下,所以叫止锚湾。
  景点介绍
  止锚湾有几个著名的景点:一个是离海岸不远处三块突兀嶙峋的巨石直插海面,很多人喜欢游到那里拍照留念,据说当年秦始皇胁迫孟姜女乘船出海巡游,航至山海关时,美人纵身一跃跳入大海,以身殉夫,此举泣鬼神,惊天地,顿时风高浪急,竟将御船吹出关外一处静水湾方才泊住,为感激搭救,秦皇御赐地名“止錨湾”,而这三块石头,有人说是孟姜女化身而成,形似将军,又名将军石。最著名的说法,则是曹操作《观沧海》名句"东临碣石,以观沧海"中的"碣石"。
  沿着海岸线往东走,有弯月如钩的白沙海滩,有接天联地的裸露礁石,还有废弃的灯塔、渔港、养鱼池,残破的房屋,神秘的军事基地。往西走不远则是秦汉遗址、姜女庙、山海关、栈桥望海亭。
      地址:辽宁省葫芦岛市绥中县城东的万家镇
  门票:无

周边景点
  秦汉遗址
  秦汉遗址群范围约15平方公里,包括六处大型宫殿遗址,分布在石碑地、黑山头、瓦子地、大金丝屯、红石砬子和周家南山。碣石宫遗址,是六处遗址中最大的一处,呈长方形,南北长500多米,东西宽260多米,占地面积15万平方米。碣石宫建在石碑地高地上。
  遗址的立体建筑靠海岸线,遗留下来的夯土台高达8米,台基边长40米,有一半沉入地下,是一座规模宏伟的高台多级建筑。立体建筑的两翼有角楼,后面有成批的建筑群。除秦都咸阳和汉都长安以外,极少有如此大型而又布局有方的宫殿建筑群。
  从这里出土的特大夔凰纹瓦当和云纹瓦当,是秦代皇家建筑的专用材料,图案的规范化为全国所少见。两千多年前行宫中的大小居室、排水系统、储备食物的窖井等,均清晰可见。遗址处现建有遗址陈列馆。
  地址:绥中县万家镇止锚湾海滨
  门票:无

  姜女庙
  孟姜女庙又称贞女祠,是民间故事"孟姜女哭长城"的产物。由贞女祠和孟姜女苑组成。贞女祠始建于宋代以前,明万历年间二十二年(1594)主事张栋重修,为河北省重点文物保护单位。庙宇前有108级台阶直通山门,庙上红色围墙内有前后两殿及钟楼、振衣亭、望夫石等景观。庙后建有江南水乡风格的园林观赏区--孟姜女原及东西配殿,再现我国四大民间传说之首的"孟姜女的故事"全景。后殿原供观音,殿后有"望夫石",石上有坑,传为孟姜女望夫足迹。旁有石台,台后有振衣亭,为孟姜女梳妆更衣处。庙东南4公里渤海中有两块礁石,传为孟姜女坟。1956年,孟姜女庙被公布为河北省第一批重点文物保护单位。
  地址:山海关城东约6公里的望夫石村后山岗上
  门票:5月-9月:30元,其余时间:25元。
  开放时间: 8:00--16:00

  山海关
  山海关古称榆关,是明长城的东北起点,境内长城26公里。明朝洪武十四年(公元1381年),徐达中山王奉命修永平、界岭等关,在此创建山海关,因其北倚燕山,南连渤海,故得名山海关。山海关是万里长城的最东端。据史料记载,山海关自公元1381年建关设卫,至今已有600多年的历史,自古即为我国的军事重镇。山海关的城池,周长约4公里,是一座小城,整个城池与长城相连,以城为关。城高14米,厚7米。全城有四座主要城门,并有多种古代的防御建筑,是一座防御体系比较完整的城关,有"天下第一关"之称。
  地址:北省秦皇岛市区东部15公里处
  门票:5月-10月:40元;其他月份:35元
  开放时间:8:00-18:00

  九门口长城
  因其城桥下有九个泻水城门而得名,水势自西向东直入渤海,气势磅礴、壮观,是自然景观和人文景观的完美结合,因而享有"水上长城"的美誉。据文献记载,九门口长城始建于北齐,九门口,古称一片石,明代以前就是京奉之间的交通要道。到明太祖(朱元璋)洪武十四年(1381年),由大将徐达主持修建蓟镇长城。修筑长城后,一片石关被九门口关代替,成为关内外交通的重要门户。 2002年被联合国教科文组织评为中国东北地区唯一的世界文化遗产。
  地址:辽宁省绥中县李家乡新台子村境内,距山海关15公里
  门票:成人票:60元;儿童票:30元
  开放时间:8:30-17:00

止锚湾出游地图


止锚湾位置图

止锚湾当地交通

  止锚湾虽然属于辽宁绥中,但毗邻河北秦皇岛市山海关区,距离京沈高速万家镇出口大约十公里,公路交通非常方便,铁路交通因为邻近山海关火车站,山海关火车站每天经停几十趟客运列车,交通非常发达。一般去止锚湾多数人会选择自驾前往,如果坐火车去,可以坐火车到山海关,山海关区距离止锚湾大约十五公里,可以事先约好住宿的渔家乐酒店开车来接站,也可以直接打车前往。
  自驾:
  北京方向:走京沈高速,出山海关即见万家镇路牌,万家出高速后右转,朝南走约10公里到海边止锚湾。
  沈阳方向:沿京哈高速从九门口水上长城/碣石海滨出口离开,驶入址九线。
  天津方向:长深高速--唐津高速--京哈高速--山海关出口,即见万家镇路牌。

  火车:
  止锚湾毗邻山海关,坐车到山海关比较方便,可坐火车到山海关下车,然后打车或做小巴到止锚湾,20多分钟,或者直接联系店家去接。北京、沈阳、天津等地到山海关的列车有几十趟可供选择。到达山海关后,坐小巴或出租车可直接前往址锚湾海边,约20分钟路程。
  推荐火车车次:
  D21 动车组 北京-山海关   07:00-09:32 2小时32分 二等软座93
  D10 动车组 沈阳北-山海关 08:59-13:52 4小时53分 二等软座207
  更多山海关火车信息见:http://train.qunar.com/station.htm?fromStation=%E5%B1%B1%E6%B5%B7%E5%85%B3

止锚湾当地住宿

  止锚湾适合住一晚,浅夜散步、伴着海浪入睡或早起看日出都很有味道。止锚湾的住宿有很多选择,但因还没有商业开发,大多数房间的住宿条件不甚理想。房屋狭小,电压不足,条件简陋,洗澡大多采用太阳能热水器。紧邻大海的渔家院每个床位从15到50元不等,分2、3、4甚至6人间,若去的人多,可以跟老板协商砍价。有的农家院离海稍微有点远,但胜在价格便宜,带淋浴带厕所的标间一般50~80元。当然也可以选择在海滩上扎帐篷。

   推荐住宿:

    1.鱼水情渔家院
  推荐理由:靠海近,有独立卫生间,比较干净,早餐味道好。
  价格:标间120元/间,包吃100元/人
  电话:0429-6485294   15142867892 

  2.开心农家院
  推荐理由:农家院就在海边,开窗就是海,可以伴着海浪入睡。
  价格:标间120元/间,包吃100元/人
  电话:0429-6485511  13315679505

  3.碣石宫海洋假日酒店
  推荐理由:独立别墅里的标间,酒店有独立的海滩。
  价格: 标间300元/间。如需早餐需提前预订,每人10元。
  电话: 0429-6486111   6486222

止锚湾当地饮食


(吃海鲜  作者:wawadelia)
  来到海边旅游,自然要吃海鲜。止锚湾所有接待游人住宿的渔家乐,都同时经营餐饮。一般游客住在谁家,就在谁家吃饭。早餐非常普通,一般人均十元,无非是稀饭馒头鸡蛋之类。午餐和晚餐可以品尝到当地海鲜风味,如螃蟹、琵琶虾、扇贝、白眼鱼等,但若想品尝到更加新鲜可靠的海产品,可以自己去市场买些海鲜回来,请店家加工。运气好的话,在海边会遇到刚刚出海归来的渔船,直接向渔船购买海鲜,再回去委托客店老板加工,无论是口感还是经历,都是最有趣的。注意事先谈好加工费,这样既可以吃到新鲜的海鲜,又便宜。晚上还可以在海滩上进行海鲜烧烤,鱿鱼、章鱼、虾、花蛤等烧烤的味道也不错。

止锚湾行程规划

  D1中午到达止锚湾,可到海边戏水游玩,海边自由活动。
  中午抵达止锚湾,餐后到海边游玩,观海、游泳、玩沙滩排球;晚餐自行品尝当地风味小吃(可海边烧烤、海鲜加工、品农家绿色佳肴)。晚上到金沙滩看烟花、放孔明灯,参加多彩的夜间活动。
  D2 看日出,周边景点游。
  破晓观日出,赶海拾贝,早餐后前往碣石景区,体验当年魏武帝登临碣石,以观沧海的豪情壮志。明长城的东端起点,素有"天下第一关"之称的山海关。下午可参观九门口长城。

止锚湾其他信息


(止锚湾黄昏  作者:cxxy0959)

特点提醒
  1、若自驾或者包车,建议事先买好足够的水、食品、烧烤物资,到海边除了海鲜,尽量吃自己带的东西。
  2、海滩上有不少军事通讯基地,尽量远离他们,强大的雷达辐射对身体极度有害。
  3、虽然大多数沙滩很细腻,但是有礁石的很危险,若在此处下海,建议穿跟脚的沙滩凉鞋;若有折叠车最好带着,沿着滨海路可以径直骑到山海关,孟姜女庙,很方便。
  4、原汁原味的渔民部落虽然令人兴奋,但是不管吃饭还是住宿,最好提前和老板讲好价格。
  5、在海边潮气特大,建议带上厚衣服,另外蚊虫较多,带上驱蚊药;若在海滩扎帐篷,当地人会找你乱收费,要价颇高,可选择在沙滩边的草地上扎。
  6、早晨起来,能在海水里捡到螃蟹哎,个头不小,带上渔网之类的会有好的收获。海滩边上进去有好多小石头,要下海的,一定提前备着沙滩鞋和创可贴。
  7、现金一定要带足,止锚湾可以刷卡消费的地方几乎没有。
  8、这里也可以随船出海,不过却分两种方式:1)随当地渔船出海打渔,撒一网,捞上的海鲜归游客,价格大约500元左右;2)坐船绕碣石等景物一圈,差不多40分钟,要价大约200,均摊到每个游客头上,也就十几块钱。

曹操作《观沧海》的传说
  传说,2000年前的秦始皇以及魏武帝曹操,东游时均到达此处。曹操平定了三郡乌桓和辽西、辽东后准备回许昌,他带领文臣武将,三谒碣石宫。在望海台上,曹操望着大海,纳百川,汇江河,一碧万顷,不禁心旷神怡,诗兴大发,大呼:"拿笔来!"侍卫安放好文房四宝,曹操挥毫写上:
  东临碣石,
  以观沧海。
  水何澹澹,
  山岛竦峙。
  树木丛生,
  百草丰茂。
  秋风萧瑟,
  洪波涌起。
  日月之行,
  若出其中。
  星汉灿烂,
  若出其里,
  幸甚至哉,
  歌以咏志。
  曹操一口气写完,又在右下角署上"曹孟德于建安十二年九月,观沧海"。

孟姜女的传说
  孟姜女的传说有很多个版本,像河北徐水、陕西铜川、湖南、河南等都流传着孟姜女的故事,但唯有山海关的孟姜女庙最为正宗,也是迄今为止保存最为完整的孟姜女庙。相传孟姜女生活在秦始皇时代,她的丈夫范杞梁被抓去修长城,多时未归,她不辞辛苦万里寻夫来到海边长城脚下,却听说丈夫已因修筑长城累死,尸骨埋在长城下。她得此噩耗,悲痛欲绝,放声大哭,将长城哭倒,她把丈夫的尸骨拣出埋葬后,在山海关投海自尽。从此,这里被后人认为是“孟姜女哭长城”之地,并修建了孟姜女庙。而海中的礁石则被认为是孟姜女的坟墓和墓碑。
      深度了解: http://www.shgpa.org/show.asp?id=278

止锚湾出游参考

  蚂蜂窝和游多多都有曾去过葫芦岛市绥中县止锚湾游玩的旅友们所写的止锚湾游记,记录了止锚湾旅程中吃住行玩等实用的游玩路线信息,可供旅友们参考。
  止锚湾游记:http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/934559.html

      止锚湾游记:http://www.yododo.com/area/blog/012317FC086E2D0DFF80808123158057


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