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【走遍中国】 最“川西”的鹤鸣茶社——2016年四川成都鹤鸣老茶馆体验轻攻略

发布时间:2015年12月27日 编辑:鸾七 访问:20280 评论:29条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 四川 成都 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 轻松
适合天数: 1天 花费预算: 100元 适合时间: 全年
可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 四川 成都 老茶馆 鹤鸣 鹤鸣茶社 人民公园 历史 人文 生活 民俗 走遍中国 ◎切换到无图简洁版


(成都鹤鸣茶馆,始建于1923年,是成都现存、全国历史最悠久的茶馆之一,90年的风雨历程也让它散发着不一样的成都味道。)

  坐落于成都人民公园内的鹤鸣茶社,始建于1923年,距今已有九十年的历史,是全国历史最悠久的茶社之一。
  据成都地方志记载,人民公园内共有6个茶社,其他5家命途多舛,有的挪了地方,有的重建了楼宇。唯有鹤鸣茶社几经沧桑,仍保留着原汁原味的老成都茶文化风貌,记载着茶社的变迁和历史。整个茶社最多可容纳3000多人喝茶。在高档茶楼茶馆林立的今天,鹤鸣茶社是成都最具“川西民风古俗风味”的茶馆之一。
  鹤鸣茶社的创办人姓龚,大邑人。上世纪20年代初,他租了公园一块地皮,修建了一座亭式厅堂茶厅,取名为"鹤鸣",横额由书法家王稼祯题写。中式建筑、湖畔、长廊、矮桌子,竹靠椅,盖碗茶、长嘴壶、掏耳朵、看相占卦……构成了鹤鸣茶社独特的风景。


(成都是著名的休闲之都,成都老茶馆是最能感受成都式休闲的地方,只要有时间,成都人都喜欢来到茶馆里喝喝茶。)

  老人摇着薄扇和满堂儿孙在这里家长里短,或手持盖碗茶具慢慢细品,或摆龙门阵,或打牌聊天,或看报嗑瓜子,将悠闲惬意发挥到极致。
  在春夏秋季,来喝茶的茶客都很多,生意最好的时候可说是座无虚席。这里面不仅有老成都,也有慕名而来的外地游客。12-30元不等的盖碗茶,桌上配有暖瓶可以续水,如果不赶时间,能在茶社里坐上整个下午。茶客们还能去社里出售茶叶和零食的小卖部,买点瓜子、花生等"零嘴儿",一边喝茶,一边享用。
  茶馆内穿停不息的净耳郎,轻轻一捻手中铁钳,发出“叮”一声清脆的响声,一边喝茶一边享受掏耳朵……掏耳只需20元一次,如果还要净耳的话则需要80元。
  有人说,成都是个泡在茶水里的城市,此话当真不假。也有人说成都就是个大茶园,此话也是千真万确。喝茶是需要心境的,在成都喝茶其实就是在学习成都人的平和的心境。


这种老式的竹椅木桌是最传统的成都茶馆风格。


鹤鸣茶馆的建筑和走廊凉亭都是最传统的川西建筑。


茶馆内有几棵参天的大梧桐,也见证着这近百年的历史。


竹椅木桌们一个个错落有致的摆好,来往客人也先来后到的选择自己喜欢的位置坐下。


喝茶之余也可以感受成都特有的挖耳师傅的技艺,让休闲之意融入每一个地方。


在鹤鸣茶馆内,总是充满着欢笑,大家总是三五好友约上一起来聚聚。


当然在鹤鸣茶馆里也有许多老茶客,常常一个人来,点一杯清茶,看上一份报纸,感受属于自己的恬静时光。


铜质的老茶壶虽然已经换了无数个了,但依旧没使用现代的电加热水壶等,保留最原始的东西。


除了喝茶以外,鹤鸣茶馆还常常有一些书画、棋牌、川剧、评书等交流活动。


鹤鸣茶馆也吸引着来自五湖四海的游客,大家都想来看一看成都老茶馆究竟是什么样,记录下属于成都的休闲之美。


大家不妨也在节假日,和家人朋友一起前往人民公园内的鹤鸣茶馆,泡上一杯盖碗茶,感受这份独特茶文化。
  (图片来源:中国文明网)

——关于[走遍中国]
  走遍中国,是一个介绍中国非主流性质的旅游地为主的栏目。这些目的地往往被爱好热闹的游客所忽视,但我们希望能够以极简的文字和图片,为您奉上中国这些大小角落里被错过的美,希望给你的旅途增添些与众不同的情趣和亮点。

鹤鸣老茶馆景点介绍


(历经百年历史的鹤鸣茶社   作者:佚名)
  鹤鸣是最具成都代表性的露天茶馆,自民国初期就有了。高高低低的鸟笼里鸟鸣声起起伏伏,几百张铺张开来的露天茶座上,“碧潭飘雪”的盖碗茶正冒着热气,飘着茶香,手持铜壶的茶倌儿穿梭跑堂, “泡茶”“掺水”声此起彼伏。老成都的根据地里,有最正宗的成都市井文化。
  据记载,鹤鸣茶馆原是上世纪二十年代初大邑龚姓人家所建,初为两层中式古典建筑,是民国时期少城公园内六大茶馆——鹤鸣、枕流、绿荫阁、永聚、射德会及文化茶园——之首,也是目前成都主城区所有茶馆中历史最久、影响最大的茶馆。
  鹤鸣茶馆内有一对黑漆柱子,上面刻有这么一对烫金对联:“四大皆空坐片刻不分你我,两头是路吃一盏各走东西。”此话何解?正所谓醉翁之意不在酒,茶客之意当然也不在茶,来鹤鸣茶社,很多人不仅仅是奔着那一茶一水,闲聊谈心、你来我往才是个中精髓。

(鹤鸣茶馆最多可容纳三千人,有最正宗的成都市井文化   作者:凝固时间)
  关于鹤鸣茶馆“六腊战争”的段子,曾经广为流传。解放前,鹤鸣的茶客大都是学校的教职员工和“进可为官,退可为教”的公务人员。那时候,公教人员的工作很不稳定,大家常聚集在一起互通信息。鹤鸣茶社堪称当初公教人员求职谋生的“交易市场”,每年农历六月和腊月假期中,公教人员都面临着失业的危险和就业的竞争,他们每日到鹤鸣茶社等聘书。老成都人戏称此事为“六腊战争”。想着这一杯透着成都人骨子里的悠闲的茶,曾经也承载着很多小市民的人生辛酸,实在令人唏嘘。
  地址:成都市青羊区少城路12号人民公园内
  价格:茶水基本在25-30元一杯


拙朴的竹椅再配上盖碗茶简直就是成都老茶馆的象征    作者:凝固时间
关于成都的那些老茶馆
  成都的茶馆之多或可称得上世界之最。那遍布大街小巷的茶馆茶楼,高档的用来谈生意,价廉物美的走进寻常百姓家,随便一家不知名的茶馆坐下来,那拙朴的竹椅盖碗茶一样的风味十足。人民公园、望江公园、合江亭等地随便一处都能看到喝茶的人。有几千年文明的巴蜀大地将中华民族的茶文化演变发展成独具特色的四川茶文化。
  成都人爱进茶馆,是因为四川人喜欢“摆龙门阵”,即在熙来攘往的茶馆之中,一边品饮盖碗茶,一边海阔天空,茶余饭后,佐以茶点小吃和曲艺表演,谈笑风生,实为人生至乐。茶馆除了休闲之外,也是重要的社交场所。在旧社会,三教九流相聚在此,不同行业、各类社团在此了解行情、洽谈生意。
  茶馆还是社会文化娱乐场所。晚上,茶馆设有川剧“玩友”坐唱,俗称“打围鼓”。另外,有些茶馆设有四川扬琴、评书、清音、金钱板等演出活动。坐茶馆的人可以边饮茶,边欣赏具有浓郁地方特色的曲艺节目。
  成都的茶馆一直以来都极为兴盛。不论是风景名胜之地,还是闹市街巷之中,到处都可看到富有地方色彩的民间茶馆。这些茶馆收费低廉,服务周到,顾客往往一杯香茗,一碟小吃,便可坐上半日。在与亲友纵论畅谈之中,巴蜀大地的茶文化也被体现的淋漓尽致。


(沉淀成都历史的味道    作者:@@鲁西西
成都茶馆的那些“讲究”
  在四川,茶铺喝茶兴用“盖碗儿”。“盖碗儿”由茶碗、茶盖、茶船子三件头组成,有三炮台之称,同时又称“三才碗”,盖为天、托为地、碗为人。其中茶船子又叫茶舟,相传是唐代德宗建中年间西川节度使崔宁之女在成都发明的。
  川人饮盖碗茶一般有五道程序:一是净具,二是置茶,三是沏茶,四是闻香,五是品饮。使用茶盖有特殊的讲究:茶盖朝下靠茶船是招呼堂倌添水;茶盖上放个小东西如树叶、火柴、小石头等表示我只是暂时离开,莫收盖碗,这一般是老茶客的动作;茶盖朝外斜靠茶船——外地人求助时会这样放;茶盖立起放茶碗旁,老茶客要赊账,茶馆老板一般不会点破,会给客人留面子;茶盖朝上放进茶碗是通知茶馆老板,可以收茶碗了。不懂这些规矩,乱放茶盖当心闹笑话。

(鹤鸣茶馆里常常可见的茶艺表演   作者:hy的随想
  茶馆堂倌的冲泡盖碗茶的动作,对茶客来说更是一种美的艺术享受。清雅的茶馆中,堂倌边唱喏边流星般转走,右手握长嘴铜茶壶,左手卡住锡托垫和白瓷碗,倏忽左手一扬,一串茶垫脱手飞出,茶垫刚停稳,“咔咔咔”,碗入茶垫,扬起茶壶,蜻蜓点水,一圈茶碗,碗碗鲜水掺得冒尖,却无半点溅出碗外。


(成都的顺兴老茶馆   作者:佚名)
成都其他老茶馆推荐
  顺兴老茶馆
  成都老字号茶馆,很有老成都的特色,对想体验四川民俗的游客而言是再好不过的去处。晚上8点后有川剧久负盛名的变脸变脸、吐火、滚灯等绝技表演,让伙计给倒杯茶,选份特色小吃套餐,边看边吃。看折子戏、赏字画、读碑刻、逛古集市。
  茶馆地址:成都市金牛区沙湾路258号成都国际会展中心3楼
  茶馆消费:第一排戏票108元,第二排98元,第三排88元,四排及以后68元(含茶水)。

  悦来茶楼
  在成都的众多茶肆中,老字号“悦来茶楼”在茶客心目中得地位不可替代,因为它是全川公认的“戏窝子”周边可吃可逛的多,单纯的川剧,票价茶水都便宜。
  茶馆地址:成都市锦江区华兴街54号
  茶馆消费:周一到周四是传统评书,票价6元(含茶水);周六下午2:00-4:00为川剧,票价18元—33元(含茶水)

  彭镇老茶馆
  这座老茶馆座落在川西平原双流彭镇老街上,茶馆是幢平房,没有店名、也没有招牌,占地约二、三百平米,两面临街,前后门口全是长长的木质旧铺板。老茶馆店堂里木梁木柱已有点歪歪斜斜,墙壁上斑斑驳驳,整个茶铺告诉你:它生活在遥远的历史里。进得茶馆,看见哪些老茶桌、老竹椅、老茶客、老茶碗,给人恍若隔世之感。 
  茶馆地址:成都市双流县彭镇,观音阁老茶馆
  茶馆消费:10-15元/人
  更多详细介绍:http://www.likefar.com/route/7276/

(彭镇老茶馆里氤氲茶香,历史就在杯盏间悄悄流走   作者:佚名)
  成都画院茶坊
  大家都晓得宽窄巷子,但是很少人知道宽窄巷子和支矶石街交界处有个成都画院,更是极少人知道成都画院是可以喝茶的。在成都画院内的这家茶馆没有什么太大名气,但是因为背靠宽窄巷子,加之很少人知道,所以在这里泡杯竹叶青闲坐一下午也是一种难得的享受。茶馆附近的宽巷子、窄巷子,以及附近的泡桐树街也是休闲的好去处。
  茶馆地址:成都市青羊区下同仁路(近支矶石街) 
  茶馆消费:人均30元

  锦里一条街茶馆
  锦里是成都开发最早,也是最著名的旅游美食街。锦里背靠武侯祠,外地游客很多,酒吧、客栈、茶楼遍布锦里一条街!这里的茶楼多是青瓦木楼,门前还会高高竖起一个茶招,颇有古韵古味。如果你是外地游客,到锦里随便找个茶楼,坐在二楼临窗位置,泡杯三花儿盖碗茶,倒也是一件乐事。类似的去处还有宽窄巷子,不过宽窄巷子的收费略高。但无论是锦里还是宽窄,成都本地人是去的不多的。
  茶馆地址:武侯区武侯祠大街231号锦里
  茶馆消费:人均50元内

  沙河边、锦江边茶铺
  要说成都最普遍、最有人情味的茶馆,还得属成都人常常喝的路边茶馆,这些茶馆分布在河边、小街内、社区内,客人也多是住在周边的人。老板和茶友熟的不能再熟了,尤其是周末的时候,几个朋友一座可能就是一天。但不推荐大家到一般的茶楼,因为对于成都人来说这些茶楼都是打麻将的地方啦。如果要说成都人比较喜欢的去处,则在成都沙河边(尤其是电子科大附近)以及九眼桥附近锦江边的茶摊是最多的。这类茶馆一般消费不高,遍布成都大街小巷。
  茶馆地址:遍布成都大街小巷
  茶馆消费:人均15-100元不等


(一本书和一支烟,还有一个巴适的下午   作者:高山)


(密语    作者:高山)


(专注   作者:高山)
更多关于成都城市的游玩指南可参考:
  成都,以平民的姿态进入诗歌——成都自助游攻略
  链接地址:http://www.likefar.com/route/5105/

鹤鸣老茶馆出游地图


成都及周边景点位置图


成都市区交通地图

鹤鸣老茶馆当地交通


(走进人民公园,这里有属于你我的好心情   作者:@@鲁西西)
  鹤鸣茶社(茶馆)位于
成都市青羊区少城路12号人民公园内,从成都市内可乘地铁2号线至人民公园站,之后步行前往。

到达成都
  飞机
  成都只有一个机场——双流机场。机场位于成都市双流县北部,距离市中心16km。

  特别提示,如果乘飞机来彭镇和成都游览,方便的话可以从机场直接往西来到距离较近的彭镇直接参观。自驾或者打车的话,不到20分钟就能到达。也可乘公交前往。
  自驾路线:双流机场——广都大道——白河路二段——白河路四段——交通路——彭镇,约8公里。
  公交路线:乘公交比较绕,且时间久,时间要2小时以上。一般路线为:从机场附近的三公桩乘804至电力大厦,换乘368至蛟龙工业港双流园区,再换乘806B至彭镇车站。

  双流机场
  双流机场距离市中心比较近,机场的高速公路与市区相通,并设有通往省内主要城市的长途汽车、直达市区的专用公交车和出租车服务站。T1航站楼主要负责川航航班以及国际航班,其余的国内航班均在T2航站楼。
  地址:成都市双流县
  机场服务电话:028-85205555
  网址:www.cdairport.com/index.jsp

  机场大巴
  成都机场至市区收发车时间以航班时间为准,滚动发车,客满即走。
  市区至成机场发车时间:5:00-18:00,每隔10-15分钟一班车
  票价:10元
  线路:市区售票处(岷山饭店)——小天竺——成都数码广场(一环路口)——美领馆——双流机场
  咨询电话:028-85205555 / 85205333

  机场公交
  乘车地点:1号航站楼1楼3号出口;2号航站楼5号出口
  咨询电话:028-85205555 / 85205333
  线路:
  300路(火车北站公交站——双流机场)(6:30-20:00)10元
  303路(市内售票处——双流机场)(6:00-22:00)10元
  317路(双流机场——火车东客站)(7:00-19:00)12元
  826路(雅居乐花园→成都双流国际机场)(6:30-19:00)1元

  出租车
  打车地点:
  1号航站楼:到达大厅2号门外
  2号航站楼:到达大厅4、5号门外
  打车到一些地点的参考价格:
  到新南门车站约45元
  到火车北站、五块石车站、城北客运中心约60元
  到成都市天府广场约60元

  小贴士:
  从双流机场到成都市区的高速路是不收过路费的;从成都市区到机场要收14元过路费。

  火车
  成都总共有三个客运火车站,分别是成都站(成都北站)、成都东客站、成都南站。其中成都南站目前正在封闭扩建,现在开往成都的客车停靠成都站和成都东站。

  成都站(成都北站)
  成都站位于成都市中心金牛区,是成都铁路的主客运中心,开往全国大部分地区的火车都由这里发车,也是各种客运列车的终点站。此外,成都站是去往都江堰和青城山等周边景点城际动车的始发站。
  地址:四川省成都市金牛区荷花池街道北站西一路1号
  电话:028-86433232
  交通:乘坐公交车到【火车北站公交站东】、【火车北站西】、【火车北站公交站】站下车。或乘坐地铁1号线在【火车北站】下车。

  成都东客站
  位于成都市东南方,目前主要办理城际列车和高速动车组列车,从东站出发,1小时内可到重庆,2小时可到贵阳、西安,形成成都至全国的8小时交通圈。此外,车站专门设置有1个旅游售票厅,开设了专门旅游线路的售票窗口。
  地址:四川省成都市成华区保和街道万科路4号
  交通:乘坐公交车到【成都东客站东广场】、【成都东客站西广场】站下。或乘坐地铁2号线在【成都东客站】下车。

  客车
  成都市区内有十几个长途客运站,分别发往不同的方向。其中旅游最常用到的是新南门车站(旅游客运中心)、茶店子客运站以及成都汽车总站(五桂桥汽车站)。

  新南门车站(旅游客运中心)
  新南门车站位于市中心,是去往四川其它景点的旅游车站,有开往四川省内各大景点的专线。包括九寨沟、海螺沟等景点。
  地址:新南路2号
  电话:028-85433609/ 85442046
  交通:乘坐公交车到【旅游集散中心】、【新南门汽车站】下车

  茶店子客运站
  茶店子客运站主营的是四川西、北部的藏区以及一些著名的景区线路,包括汶川、映秀等地。地铁2号线经过,换乘中转十分方便。
  地址:四川省成都市金牛区西三环路五段
  电话:028-87506625,028-87506610
  交通:乘坐公交车到【 茶店子客运站】、【 茶店子公交站】下车,或乘坐地铁2号线到【 茶店子客运站】下车。

  成都汽车总站(五桂桥汽车站)
  位于火车北站西侧,与火车北站相距300米,主营往返重庆、宜宾等地的线路。
  地址:四川省成都市成华区迎晖路198号
  电话:028-84716144,028-84711692
  交通:乘坐公交车到【五桂桥公交站】下车

鹤鸣老茶馆当地住宿

成都推荐住宿
  成都缘来客栈
  地址:成都市青羊区北东街1号时代印象3栋3楼20号
  价格:经济房 远方价150元/间;挂牌价 180元/间
  联系:028-86932070   13808012313
  推荐理由:体验地道老成都生活,客店位于内环路以内、城中心最成熟的巴金故居双眼井社区,生活便利,交通方便不堵车。老板是个很风趣的人,能指导很多游成都的草根咨询,社区美食众多,粗算起来竟有60多家馆子。
  详细介绍:http://www.likefar.com/inn/3230/

  成都直必达自助旅舍
  地址:成都市一环路南四段12号奇伍大厦二楼直必达自助旅舍
  价格:30元/床/天 八人间
  联系:028-85578484   13668274155
  推荐理由:这里是一个小中见大的旅行交流场所。店随不大,但五脏俱全。这里是一个能听着异乡驴友鼾声入眠的的环境,五湖四海的朋友在此汇聚,也许旅行中能结队走到一起。
  详细介绍:http://www.likefar.com/inn/5630/

  成都小猪酒店公寓
  地址:青羊区北大街88号天盛壹中心一单元6楼8号(北门大桥好又多旁)临近文殊坊100米
  价格:特价房 98元/天
  联系:13548169287
  推荐理由:成都小猪结束了以前老式的房型楼盘,正式入驻文殊坊附近的天盛壹中心,拥有二十多套拥有观景玻璃窗的绝佳房型,完全精装修小户型,楼下便是成熟商圈,距超市、小吃店、饭馆、电玩室超近。
  详细介绍:http://www.likefar.com/inn/4869/

攻略制作队伍

顾问:成都市旅游局 咨询电话:028-61882955

摄影:凝固时间 @@鲁西西 hy的随想 高山

行者:凝固时间

本攻略最后修订时间:2015年12月29日

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