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青海西宁湟中鲁沙尔塔尔寺景点介绍(附图)

发布时间:2010年05月19日 编辑:阳光照进心里 访问:38012 评论:26条 发表评论! 纠错!

 
(如意宝塔   作者:丫丫)
  塔尔寺又名塔儿寺。得名于大金瓦寺内为纪念黄教创始人宗喀巴而建的大银塔,古称“佛山”,藏语称为“衮(音gun)本贤巴林”,意思是:“十万狮子吼佛像的弥勒寺”。它座落在湟中县鲁沙尔镇西南隅的连花山坳中,是我国喇嘛教(藏传佛教)格鲁派(黄教)创始人宗喀巴诞生地,我国藏传佛教格鲁派(黄教)六大寺院之一,也是青海省首届一指的名胜古迹和全国重点文物保护单位。
  该寺初建于明嘉靖三十九年(公元1560年),迄今已有400多年的历史。整个寺院是由众多的殿宇、经堂、佛塔、僧舍组成的一个汉藏艺术相结合的辉煌壮丽建筑群,占地面积约600余亩,是西北地区藏传佛教的活动中心,在全国及东南亚亦享有盛名。

景点信息
  景区级别:全国重点文物保护单位
  地址:青海省西宁市区西南25公里的湟中县鲁沙尔镇西南隅的连花山坳中
  门票:80元(对现役军人、残疾军人、军队离退休干部、学龄前儿童等实行免票;对学生、老年人、残疾人实行半价优惠。)
  讲解员价格:1-9人60元, 10-19人80元, 20人以上每人5元
  开放时间:5-10月:7:30-18:00 ;其他月份:8:30-17:30
  交通:西宁被称为“青藏门户”,历来交通比较便捷。目前,全市已基本形成了空运、铁路、公路相衔接配套的交通网络。西宁飞机场,火车站,长途汽车站均在辖区内,是省内外交通的必经要道和枢纽。
  航空:
  西宁曹家堡机场,距离市区有近三十公里的路程,是于1991年建成并投入运营的,现在已经和北京、西安、成都、广州、格尔木、拉萨、上海、深圳等十多个城市通航,其中上海和深圳的航线要在西安经停,每天都有班机的只有北京和西安的航线,因此,乘坐飞机前往西宁则需要提前打电话咨询好,然后再行动;从西宁市区到机场之间有民航班车来往,车票价格约为8元,当然也可以选择乘坐出租车,票价约为50元。
  青海省民用机场24小时咨询电话:0971- 8133333
  民航局市内免费送票订票电话:0971-8124821
  八一路售票处(八一西路32号)电话:0971-8133333 
  建银宾馆售票点(建银宾馆一楼大厅)电话:0971-8261115
  北大街售票点(天桥商务中心一楼)电话:0971-8250389
  五四大街售票点(交通公寓一楼)电话:0971-6136454

  铁路:
  西宁火车站位于兰青铁路和青藏铁路的交汇处,地处西宁市东北部的祁连路上,从西宁站里乘坐火车向东经兰州可达全国各地,向西经格尔木可抵西藏境内(青藏铁路的格拉段已经开工修建),西宁站有直达北京、上海、青岛、西安、格尔木等地方的列车。
  火车站问事处电话:0971-7192222 
  火车站售票处电话:0971-8121144、7192262

  公路:
  在公路交通方面,西宁是青海、西藏的咽喉所在,青海省内5条国道中就有4条穿西宁市而过,西宁与周边地区都有高等级公路连接,西兰高速公路建成以后,打通了甘肃省与青海省的快速通道。西宁长途汽车客运站位于建国路北端,距离火车站约600米,车站中开往周边主要城市的的长途客运班车,省外主要以开往甘肃各地为主,省内则以格尔木和茶卡为主,另外,在西关大街纸坊街有一座郊县汽车站,这里以开往西宁市郊县的班车为主。
  西宁汽车站(建国路1号)电话:0971-8149504、8149506

  公交车:
  西宁市的公交车主要由公交大巴车和小巴士专线组成,其中公交线路有四十多条,不仅可以抵达市内4区的各个地方,也有通往郊县个别地方的公交线路。小巴士线路共有九条,线路编号从101到109,主要是连通市区(特别是火车站)和郊县及城南新区的线路。

  出租车:
  西宁市内的出租车型多为夏利,起步价为6元三公里,之后每公里租价为1.10元;另外,在西宁市内还有很多面的,起步价为4元三公里,每公里租价为1.00元。

  汽车租赁:
  去青海旅游观光或进行登山探险等,因青海地广路远,所以大多数人都会选择租车,因此,在西宁市有很多汽车租赁服务公司,汽车租赁的价格以双方谈价为准,约为600元/天,或者2.50元/公里。
  西宁利隆出租汽车有限公司(学院巷12号)电话:0971- 6150924
  西宁市交通局劳司大方出租汽车行(长江路146号)电话:0971-8589349
  青海申青出租租赁汽车有限公司(南山路13号)电话:0971-8212722

  从西宁到塔尔寺,可先到西宁体育馆隔壁的小西门汽车站和城西的纸坊路汽车站,这里有公交车和出租车到湟中县。白天通常每10分钟一班,最晚一班车到晚上7点左右发出。另有夏利凑足四人发车。公交车票价3元/人,出租车票价8~10元/人。天黑前都有车(出租车)返回西宁。 
  联系电话:西宁旅游局 0971-6118115 塔尔寺 0971-2232357
  投诉电话:0971-6100110
  景区官方网站http://www.xnly.gov.cn/
  景区相关服务设施:停车场位于塔尔寺步行街东侧。寺院附近有很多餐馆。住宿可以到塔尔寺所在的鲁沙尔镇上。朝圣者旅馆、塔尔寺旅馆都可以入住,后者相对更舒适一些,位于寺院入口处的左边。也可以返回西宁住宿。
  住宿
  西宁雪域行者青年旅舍
  地址:青海省西宁市南川东路18-1号
  价格:普通双人间:120元/间(24小时热水,独立洗手间,暖气)
  普通三人间:35元/床位(24小时热水,公共洗手间)
  六人间:30元/床位(24小时热水,公共洗手间)
  联系电话:0971-6262606  6262678
  推荐理由:雪域行者青年旅馆,距西宁市中心仅2.1公里,坐落在从市区到塔尔寺的必经之路上。旅馆设有餐厅、阅览室、放映厅、聊天室、屋顶花园等,地下负一层设有健身设施,场外有大型露天停车场。交通便利,环境优雅。
  详细介绍:http://www.likefar.com/inndetail.cfm/argu/cid,14-id,372
  周边景区:卡约文化遗址、湟中县博物馆、药水滩温泉北禅寺、大佛寺、虎台、马步芳公馆、

旅游小贴士:
  1、在寺院里,不能用手摸佛经、佛像、法器等,更不能跨越;转经轮时,一定是从左向右;不要乱摸藏族人的头和帽子。
  2、严禁吸烟、爱护文物、殿内禁止拍照。

景区地图:
景点方位图


景区示意图(点击看大图)

景区相关资料

  塔尔寺是藏传佛教格鲁派创始人宗喀巴大师的诞生地,也是格鲁派(黄教)的发祥地,为格鲁派六大著名寺院(即西藏噶丹寺、哲蚌寺、色拉寺、扎什伦布寺、青海塔尔寺、甘肃拉卜楞寺)之一,为青海佛教最大丛林之一,也是中国的一大名胜古迹,故蒙、藏、土等少数民族,视塔尔寺为圣地,都以来此朝觐为荣。
  塔尔寺,位于青海省湟中县鲁沙尔镇(按:塔尔寺地方,在宗喀巴未出生的时候,西山根向阳处,已形成了一个小村落,藏语叫“日晒尔”意即新牧场、新窝子,后来鲁沙尔的名称是“日晒尔”的转音)西南的莲花山中,距省府西宁仅26公里。寺周围被八座平缓而形似八瓣莲花的山峰环抱,因而得名莲花山。这里夏 、秋山色青翠,显青莲状;冬、春山峰白雪皑皑,呈白莲状。远处,山峦重迭,极目远眺,妙如千瓣莲。塔尔寺宏伟壮丽的建筑群,犹如莲蕊,坐落在莲花山间,将莲花山点缀得更加庄严美丽。
  塔尔寺,是黄教的发祥地,人杰地灵,由于黄教的兴起和发展,追本溯源,纪念祖师而修建的。整个寺院是由经堂、亭台、佛塔、楼阁等组成一座汉藏兼备的建筑群。占地面积有六百余亩,僧舍房屋多达九千三百余间,殿宇佛堂有五十二座。塔尔寺最盛时有喇嘛三干六百多人,在青海解放初期,也还有一千九百余人,现有喇嘛五百多人。

 
(殿堂屋顶   作者:影子shadows)
  塔尔寺历史
  塔尔寺塔尔寺的由来,先有塔,而后有寺,故名塔尔寺。塔尔寺建于明嘉靖年间,初建时只有一座圣塔,后几经扩建,目前共有大金瓦寺、小金瓦寺、花寺、大经堂、九间殿、大拉浪、如意塔、太平塔、菩提塔、过门塔等大小建筑共1000多座院落,4500多间殿宇僧舍,规模宏大,宫殿、佛堂、习经堂、寝宫、喇嘛居住的扎厦以及庭院交相辉映,浑然一体,自古以来即为黄教中心及佛教圣地。寺庙的建筑涵盖了汉宫殿与藏族平顶的风格,独具匠心地把汉式三檐歇山式与藏族檐下巧砌鞭麻墙、中镶金刚时轮梵文咒和铜镜、底层镶砖的形式融为一体,和谐完美地组成一座汉藏艺术风格相结合的建筑群。塔尔寺不仅是中国的喇嘛教圣地,而且是造就大批藏族知识分子的高级学府之一,寺内设有显宗、密宗、天文、医学四大学院。此外,它还以酥油花、壁画和堆绣闻名于世,号称"塔尔寺三绝"。
  塔尔寺是宗喀巴大师罗桑扎巴(1357-1419年)的诞生地。宗喀巴大师早年学经于夏琼寺,16岁去西藏深造,改革西藏佛教,创立格鲁派(黄教),成为一代宗师。传说他诞生以后,从剪脐带滴血的地方长出一株白旃檀树,树上十万片叶子,每片上自燃显现出一尊狮子吼佛像(释迦牟尼身像的一种),“衮本”(十万狮身像)的名称即源于此。宗喀巴去西藏6年后,其母香萨阿切盼儿心切,让人捎去一束白发和一封信,要宗喀巴回家一晤。宗喀巴接信后,为学佛教而决意不返,给母亲和姐姐各捎去自画像和狮子吼佛像一幅,并写信说:“若能在我出生的地点用十万狮子吼佛像和菩提树(指宗喀巴出生处的那株白旃檀树)为胎藏修建一座佛塔,就如与我见面一样”。第二年,即明洪武十二年(1379),香萨阿切在信徒们的支持下建塔,取名“莲聚塔”。此后180年中,此塔虽多次改建维修,但一直未形成寺院。明嘉靖三十九年(1560 ),掸师仁钦宗哲坚赞于塔侧倡建静房1座修禅。17年后的万历五年(1577),复于塔之南侧建造弥勒殿。至此,塔尔寺初具规模。万历十年(1582)第三世达赖喇嘛索南嘉措第二次来青海,翌年春,由当地申中昂索从措卡请至塔尔寺。三世达赖向仁钦宗哲坚赞及当地申中、西纳、祁家、龙本、米纳等藏族部落昂索指示扩建塔尔寺,赐赠供奉佛像,并进行各种建寺仪式。从此,塔尔寺发展很快,先后建成达赖行宫、三世达赖灵塔殿、九间殿、依怙殿、释迦殿等。经四世达赖指示,万历四十年(1612)正月,正式建立显宗学院,讲经开法,标志着塔尔寺成为格鲁派的正规寺院。

  建筑布局
  塔尔寺以大金瓦寺为中心,主要建筑依山傍塬,有大金瓦寺、大经堂、弥勒殿、九间殿、花寺、小金瓦寺、居巴扎仓、丁科扎仓、曼巴扎仓、大拉浪、大厨房、如意宝塔等9300余间(座),组成一庞大的藏汉结合的建筑群,占地面积45万平方米。
  大金瓦寺又称大金瓦殿,藏语称为“赛而顿”,即金瓦的意思。始建于明嘉靖年间,面积456平方米,下为藏式“须弥座”,上为重檐歇山鎏金瓦顶,回廊周匝。底层前出附阶,为信徒礼拜场所。檐口饰鎏金云头挂板,正脊安装鎏金宝瓶及火焰宝珠等。殿内有高达11米的大银塔1座。外壁墙面遍贴绿琉璃砖,间以黄琉璃花饰。殿两侧各建弥勒殿1座。
  大经堂始建于明万历三十四年(1606),毁于火,1917年重建。土木结构,为藏式双层平顶建筑,汉式楼阁遥相互映。经堂面阔十三间,进深十一间。面积1981平方米。堂内四壁存放着数百册经卷。
  九间殿又称文殊菩萨殿,为汉式硬山顶建筑,面阔九间,进深三间,面积592平方米。初建于明万历二十年(1592),清雍正十二年(1734)扩建。廊柱为藏式朱色八楞柱。整座大殿以三间为一单元,由北向南分别为狮子吼佛殿、文殊殿和宗喀巴殿。
  花寺又称祈寿殿,建于清康熙五十六年(1717),系一独立的小庭院,殿为两层重檐歇山顶建筑。柱头梁枋都饰以飞禽、走兽、花卉、文纹,院墙饰琉璃砖雕。殿内供奉释迦牟尼、十六罗汉和四大金刚等塑像。
  小金瓦寺藏语称“旃康”。殿分上下3层,底层和中层面阔七间,进深五间。底层为三面封闭的殿堂,中层为明窗式,在藏式双层平顶建筑上增建面阔三间的汉式歇山顶单檐建筑,清嘉庆七年(1802)改为鎏金铜瓦顶。殿内有佛像、鎏金宝塔、经卷、白马标本等。院内两侧和前方有绘满各式壁画的壁画廊,为两层藏式建筑。
  大拉浪由经堂、华门、牌坊3座殿堂组成,为汉藏合璧式建筑,是塔尔寺总法台的居住处,达赖、班禅曾驻跸于此。居巴扎仓(密宗学院)系藏式平顶建筑。曼巴扎仓、丁科扎仓属汉藏结合建筑。宝塔数十座,其中并列于寺前的8座如意宝塔,方座,瓶形塔身,尖顶,根据释迦牟尼一生重要经历和传说建成。
  塔尔寺内收藏有大量鎏金铜佛像、铜佛像、金银灯、金书藏经、木刻板藏经、法器、灵首塔、御赐匾额、壁画、堆绣等文物。其中壁画与堆绣、酥油花被誉为塔尔寺三绝。

  塔尔寺艺术三绝
  酥油花
  酥油花是塔尔寺的“艺术三绝”之一,它是用酥油作原料造出的各种佛像、人物、山水、亭台楼阁、飞禽走兽、花卉树木等艺术精品。每年农历正月十五展出时,由民族管乐器为主组成的花架乐队演奏出节奏缓稳、庄严肃穆的花架音乐乐曲,来烘托宗教气氛,并随着灯光的闪动;在含蓄典雅的音乐中,展示出酥油花雕塑的群体千姿百态。它们工艺精巧,形象逼真,色彩绚丽,栩栩如生。在火树银花的元霄夜,中外游客,争相观看这一艺术奇观,无不交口称赞。
  酥油花是雕塑艺术的一种特殊形式。相传酥油花起源于西藏。公元641年(唐朝贞观15年),文成公主进藏和藏王松赞干布完婚时,带去释迦牟尼佛像一尊,在大昭寺内供奉。这尊佛像原来没有冠冕,宗喀巴学佛成功以后,在佛像头上献了莲花形的“护法牌子”,身上献了“披肩”,还供奉了一束“酥油花”,这就是酥油花的来历。塔尔寺是宗喀巴的诞生地,不久酥油花就传到这里,并在塔尔寺得到弘扬和发展,在明万历年间,这种油塑技艺传到塔尔寺后,在当地艺人们长期精心研制下达到了很高的艺术造诣。藏族信教群众有向寺院奉献酥油(奶油)的习俗,一般仅供点佛灯和僧人食用。而每逢藏历年正月十五之前,他们将纯净的白酥油送到塔尔寺,寺中的僧艺们在其中揉进各色矿物染料制成塑造用的胚料,然后在寒冷的房间中搭架塑造。为防止制作中酥油因体温融化影响造型,他们不时将手塞进刺骨的雪水中降温。
  酥油花虽名曰“花”,但其题材多样,内容丰富,主要以佛祖神仙、菩萨金刚、飞禽走兽、花鸟鱼虫、山林树木、花卉盆景组成各种故事情节,形成完整的立体画面。它的造型特点和手法类似国外盛行的腊像艺术,但不宜长期保存。酥油花艺术继承藏传佛教艺术的“精”“繁”“巧”的特点,在一个有限的空间中容纳极多的内容。大至一米到二米,小至十到二十毫米的人物走兽,个个精到,力求写实,而其姿态神韵力求传神达意。在画面布局上则继承佛教壁画中“异时同地”的处理方法,在同一画面中将一个完整的故事内容同时塑造出来。如大型酥油花《释迦牟尼本生故事》,在时间的长度、空间的广度的处理上相当成功,其中人物走兽多达上百,亭台楼阁几十处。几十个故事情节穿插自如,井然有序,繁而不杂。再配以鲜艳夺目的花朵,涂以金粉银饰,显得富丽堂皇,形式类似汉地寺院中的壁塑。
  历经漫长岁月,酥油花的艺术不断发展和创新,内容丰富、题材广泛,如“智美更登”、“唐僧取经”、“天女散花”、“天仙配”、“白蛇传”等作品深受广大人民喜闻乐见;特别是“文成公主进藏”的大型油塑,再现了1300多年前文成公主进藏的历史画面,歌颂了汉藏民族团结的共同愿望。酥油花制作精巧、细致,艺术完美,正如有人所描绘的“月当空,耳边萧鼓叮咚,彩架间,安排油酥,年年花样不同。放光彩,庄严灿烂,有人物,楼阁玲珑,怪怪奇奇,形形色色,神匠巧夺天工”。
  现在酥油花已由单一的花卉、盆景发展组成大型的酥油花架,在每年元宵灯节展出,作为供奉佛祖和菩萨的一种特有的艺术形式。1993年,江总书记视察塔尔寺时,欣然为“酥油花展览馆”题写馆名。

  壁画
  塔尔寺的壁画是我国绘画宝库之一,壁画遍绘于寺内的主要殿堂,尤其在瞻廊、回廊、前廊等处为多,全寺保存完好的大小壁画千余幅,对殿宇建筑起着很好的美化作用。壁画以它多姿的形象,生动的色调,丰富的色彩、内容,别具一格的画面而闻名于世。
  壁画大多是布画面,将画先在白布面上绘好,然后根据所放置的墙面大小镶以木框,装钉于墙面之上。也有直接绘于墙面上的,还有在墙面嵌上木板,进行干燥刨光处理,用胶和石膏合成的白浆打底,再绘各式壁画。这些单幅画组合起来,布与廊壁之上,构成完整的大型画面,为殿堂增色不少。
  壁画颜料采用石制矿物染料,色泽绚丽,经久不变。是塔尔寺壁画特有的一大长处。
  塔尔寺壁画属藏传佛教画系,其画风与汉画不同,具有浓郁的印藏风味。其内容和人物大都取材于佛经故事和密宗经典。画面配有众多的自然景色,使人物活跃于花草树木、蓝天大地,高山河流,亭台楼阁之中,画面构思巧妙,布置井然,色调和谐,精巧细腻,层次分明,人物形象,千姿百态,栩栩如生。

  堆绣
  堆绣是在布幔上用各色布块(绸缎)粘贴、堆砌的大小佛像和周围点缀的花卉图案。它是塔尔寺独有的一种地方民族手工艺品。堆绣题材是以表现佛的各种活动为主,人物、山水、花卉、鸟兽等依据佛经故事情节制作,配以各色衬景,造型生动、立体感强,做工由许多绝妙之处,故塔尔寺把堆绣佛像视为珍贵文物,加以保存。堆绣多悬挂在经堂内,给慕名而来的中外游客以美的艺术享受。
  堆绣艺术以绣佛像为主。它是用精湛的手工技艺,将各种绸缎剪成所需的各种形状,塞以羊毛或棉花之类的填充物,在精心地绣在布幔上,按照人物不同形象、姿态、动作,堆绣成高低起伏,富有强烈的立体感、真实感的画面。该寺大经堂内悬挂的堆绣“十八罗汉”珍品,就是塔尔寺艺僧们巧夺天工的艺术杰作。
  塔尔寺每年农历四月、六月两次大法会上所晒的“大佛”,也是艺僧们在巨幅锦幔上堆绣的大型佛像。大佛长十余丈,宽六七丈,从山顶一直展到山腰,气势壮观,供数万游客信徒瞻仰膜拜。
  堆绣是塔尔寺独特的传统艺术,是艺僧们美妙的艺术佳作,受到国家领导人和各族人民群众的高度赞赏。

 
(跳神   作者:游遍藏区)
  塔尔寺法会
  法会意为祈祷,是一种宗教佛事活动。塔尔寺每年举行四次大型法会和两次小型法会。在四大法会期间,最隆重盛大的佛事活动是“跳神”,“晒大佛”和大型酥油花展。
  农历正月十四午间跳金刚怖畏护法舞
  农历正月十五上午举行浴佛(酥油花展)
  农历正月十五晚间大型酥油花灯展览
  农历四月十四午间跳金刚怖畏护法舞
  农历四月十五上午晒大佛
  农历四月十五下午跳马首金刚护法舞
  农历六月初七上午晒大佛
  农历六月初七下午跳金刚怖畏护法舞
  农历六月初八上午转经佛(转寺院外围一周)
  农历六月初八下午跳马首金刚护法舞
  农历九月二十二全天开放所有佛殿拜佛
  农历九月二十三午间跳马首金刚护法舞

  跳神
  跳神(即跳法王舞)是一种配乐舞蹈形式的佛事活动。清康熙57年(公元1718年),塔尔寺第二十任法台嘉堪布时,七世达赖授意:“须建立一个跳神院,由舞蹈师教习舞蹈音乐,并建立跳神制度”。同时赐予文武护法面具三十九副及舞衣和法器等。从此建立了四大法会时举行跳神(即跳坎)活动的跳神院(俗称社火院)。其意义是佛教徒修习正法时,为消除内,外,密三方面的邪见,逆缘,消灭危害佛教和佛教徒的邪魔外道,便通过跳护法神舞来释解。跳神内容,武的方面有男武士舞,女武士舞,男怒神舞,女怒神舞;文的方面有和静舞,教内舞,密咒舞,专一性舞;忿怒方面有微怒神舞,甚怒神舞等,共有360种舞蹈。

  晒大佛
  晒大佛,在每年农历四,六月两次法会时举行.意思是为纪念释迦牟尼诞生,成道,涅磐和弥勒出世及宗喀巴诞生,涅磐;通过晒佛让信徒们瞻仰佛像,沐浴佛恩,并防佛像遭蛀。塔尔寺有“狮子吼”,“释迦牟尼”,“宗喀巴”,“金刚萨捶”四种巨大的堆绣佛像,每次只晒一种,在寺院山坡上展晒。晒佛仪式非常隆重,观众极多,蔚为壮观。

景区图片: 
过门塔   作者:丫丫


宝塔   作者:影子shadows


宗喀巴大师塑像   作者:王云峰


 
塔尔寺全景   作者:我是绿豆


本景点最后修订时间:2016年09月12日

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