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巨佛侧畔炊烟起深山——2014年四川屏山县龙华古镇自助游攻略

发布时间:2014年02月10日 编辑:空游无依 访问:34402 评论:37条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 四川 宜宾 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 轻松
适合天数: 1-2天 花费预算: 200元 适合时间: 全年
可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 四川 宜宾 屏山县 龙华 八仙山 大佛 古镇 ◎切换到无图简洁版

(温暖的人间 摄影:toto1214)
  还在薄雾中,我们就启程了。屏山汽车客运站其实是建在县城之外的一个高坡上,进城还有一段距离。
  但我们并不进城,出了汽车站,拐弯下坡,又向着对面的山拐弯上坡,对面就是屏山县城,脚下就是金沙江,尽管车上的乘客都已经昏昏然,可是我还是一个劲儿的往外张望,山清水秀,云雾辽绕。总之,在不断的上下坡、弯道的过程中——龙华古镇,慢慢地近了。
  越往山里走,民风越淳朴,山水越清秀。不时,还看到一些小型的造纸厂从窗边掠过,一股刺鼻的石灰水味道,是专门生产草纸的小作坊,生产这种纸张是用竹子作原料,经过石灰水的浸泡制作而成。这种纸不能书写,只用于祭典。
  到达龙华古镇的时候,还比较清静,似乎没有旅游的人,看到的都是当地的居民。面对毫无“景区”味的古镇,我有些纳闷,问了一下在一旁“围观”我们的当地居民,你们的老街在什么地方?顺手朝背后指了一下,我看了看,小巷深处。
  刚刚下了小雨,地上湿湿的,一股潮气,拐过一条小街后,看到被岁月熏炙的木屋成排,积着雨水的石板路遥迢,顿时回到了久远的过去。后来才知道一般游人都是从凉桥进入古镇,而我们是从旁边一条小街乱入,看到的古镇是从“腹部”开始。

(古镇廊桥 摄影:佚名)
  古镇总布局呈三角形,三面环水,一面是山。三条古街道石板铺就,顺山势蜿蜒,明清一条街两边千余间房屋基本上保留了明清商肆民居特点,均为木结构排列,楼房多为平房或一楼一底木楼房,顺河街至下寨门一带,为三、四米宽的多台石级路,两边店铺林立,鳞次栉比,据说每至逢场日,穿行人流中,会使人联想到清明上河图。
  龙华镇的地理位置在古代十分重要,是彝汉争夺之所,三国时诸葛亮南征孟获曾亲率大军从这一带开进凉山,渡金沙江入云南。明代曾在此设驿站,清代咸丰元年在此设平安营,建都司衙门,驻军,修建城墙和城门。至今,古镇尚保留有两座寨门及都司衙门旧址、兵房。
  由于几乎还没有游客,也不是赶集的日子,所以街上显得很清静,使我们有机会慢慢看。龙华古镇像很多川南古镇一样,置身其中使人感到一股浓烈的人情味。其中最为典型的场景就是它的房屋结构的宽屋檐,这是根据龙华多阴雨天气而设置的多功能集中空间,这与我国华南一带的街道建筑颇为相似,既是市场交易的场所,也是人际交往、日常生活的地方。平时,古镇的人们就在这里乘凉、散步、摆龙门阵,悠闲自在。
  漫步古镇,古风浓郁。至今保存完好的清代三条街,名曰顺河街、新街、长街,皆是石板铺路,岁月在石板路上留下了道道凹印。古街除有关宫殿为木石建筑外,其余全为硬山木制穿斗结构,柱础方形,无图案。多为一楼一底,有的地方还有小四合院。建筑细节处,古朴美丽,窗间有各种雕花,檐柱下有无数饰案,撑拱上刻有山水,人物,走兽,飞禽;吊脚楼高高矮矮,顺应地势,“小山城”之称因此凸显。
  三条古街:顺河街沿溪而建,错落有致,三官楼临溪而立;新街实为老街,无一不是清代民居建筑;长街其实不长,曲曲弯弯,通往幽境。

(转角遇见 摄影:下沙)
  龙华寺由于年代久远,仅存遗址柱础和部分建筑,倒是不远处建于清代乾隆年间的禹王宫尚基本保存完好,主殿台基两侧的七幅高浮雕古代戏剧故事画雕刻精美,栩栩如生,如“赵匡胤洗马救驾”、“三英战吕布”、“长板坡”等,深浮雕花格图案将这些图画连接起来,颇富装饰美。遗憾的是,这个禹王宫现在已经是另有所用,而且大门紧闭,我们只是看到了它的巍峨的大门和沧桑的容貌。
  在一条小街的尽头,穿过一个古朴有型的城门,一座颇具特色的风雨桥——“龙华凉桥“如长虹卧波,横跨在小龙溪上。步上凉桥,廊顶密密地穿斗梁架,梁上悬挂着匾额“虹贯霞蔚”、“旧貌新颜”、“物华天宝”、“赤虹贯日”、“清风明月”,这也许是人们一直努力追求着的一种生活方式,一种对生活寄予的良好祝愿。四顾张望,但见大小龙溪两岸古榕成排,枝叶垂溪,流水淙淙,鸭群戏水,石墩成阵,槌衣声声。岸上民居错落有致,炊烟袅袅……好一幅小桥、流水、人家的风情画。
  非常令人遗憾的是,在河的对岸,一排排新建的,但是毫无特色的房屋已经拔地而起,与这个古镇已经形成迥异的“风格”,颇为“刹风景”!
  其实,刚刚到古镇的时候,就有一个好客的当地居民告诉我们在对面上山有一个立佛,当时还没有概念。逛完古镇后,时间还有多余的,我们就决定还是去看看这个世界第一立佛——八仙山立佛。

(接引古佛 摄影:佚名)
  八仙山就在古镇旁边,有介绍说八仙山海拨850米,相对高度420米,山有八峰,有如八个罗汉排成一排,盘膝打坐,故而叫“八仙山”。立佛凿于主峰紫红色崖壁上,据专家考证,该大佛建于明末,距今已有400余年。我们沿着石梯向上攀登,原本阴霾的天气这个时候也开始放晴,走走停停,1716级石梯也就抛在了身后,看到沿途攀登的人都是气喘嘘嘘,再看一直在来回背着百余斤草纸下山的搬运工,我们觉得这点困难也就算不了什么了,终于我们来到接近山顶的丹霞洞前,与大佛相望。
  资料上讲,八仙山大佛高32米,大佛头盘螺髻,身着袈裟,端庄肃穆,左手当胸,右手下垂,手心向外,为深浮雕接引立佛像。2001年3月,阿富汗巴米扬两尊高53米和35米的站立佛像被塔利班的炮火无情摧毁后,八仙山大佛便成为世界第一立佛。当年大佛只凿至膝部,若凿至脚,至少可增加10米。问了立佛旁边一住家户,说这佛脚刻不得,若刻出脚来,大佛就要洗脚,到了夏天,大小龙溪就要发洪水……
  八仙山丹霞洞窟群,由9个洞窟组成,皆为佛教和道教遗迹,外形为仿木结构梁柱,每洞皆镌有匾对,雕刻精美。最为奇特的是玉皇洞左右两侧的门联:上联四个字,是一个日,两个日,三个日,四个日字组成的怪字;下联四个字,则是一个月,两个月,三个月四个月字组成的怪字。别说内容含义,其中双日、四日、三月、四月这四个字无人能识,古怪顽皮地深镌在石崖上,几百年了,让人猜,就是不给正确答案。
  就在距离山顶不远的地方,居然还有一个造纸厂,这种草纸也是地方特产,究竟在今天它的主要用途是什么?仅仅是为了做祭奠用?很远就问到一股刺鼻的石灰水味道,对环境有污染没有?这个就无从知道了。
  在下山的途中,还看到不断有游客在上山,他们问我,还有好久可以到顶?为了不影响他们的兴致,我总是说,快了,不一会儿就到了……我们准时上车了,龙华古镇渐渐地远了,可是那原汁原味的川南风情,却深深的印在了我的心底。
(文字作者:njlp)


晨雾缥缈托廊桥 摄影:乐而乐


中流砥柱 摄影:stone


书山有径 摄影:stone


拜访悠闲 摄影:stone


温馨的小姐姐 摄影:nj老菜


旧岁月的痕迹 摄影:stone


我们擦肩而过 摄影:下沙


理发店 摄影:下沙


网住岁月 摄影:大叔视界


炙疗 摄影:石浮


新时代 摄影:下沙


绿痕庇护下的人家 摄影:下沙


穿越 摄影:佚名


纯朴的小吃 摄影:石浮


浣梯 摄影:铜河


豆腐坊的早晨 摄影:下沙

宜宾龙华古镇景点介绍


(家长里短的古朴人间 摄影:石浮)
  我国有多处以“龙华”为名的地方,这里指的是四川宜宾市屏山县的龙华古镇,其位于屏山县屏山镇南37公里处。因有明代所建龙华寺而得名。是国家级历史文化名镇。龙华是一个依山临水古风依然的小镇,它的南面是起伏绵延的老君山,大龙溪、小龙溪在镇北口相汇后流入岷江,八仙山风景区隔溪与古镇相望,环境优美,民风淳朴,有现今世界上最大的立佛——八仙山大佛。由于大山的阻隔,使得龙华完好地保留下了它的历史风貌,有古镇活化石之称。
  古镇的古街除有关宫殿为木、石建筑外,其余全为硬山木制穿斗结构,柱础方形,无图案。多为一楼一底,有的地方还有小四合院。正街长 310.3 米,此街特点:临街房屋檐下出挑,置阁楼式吊檐楼。阁楼楼窗变化多端,有双交四碗菱花,三交六碗菱花,两交四碗,三交满天星等。檐柱下有菱,圆,方形饰案,撑拱上刻有各类山水,人物,走兽,飞禽。新街长154.5 米,因背临小龙溪,所以多有四合院。檐柱列队,整齐划一。顺河街长 136.3 米,当年的更楼横跨街心,天主教堂风韵犹存。此街特点,街面坡度交陡,又背临大龙溪,从大龙溪看此街,屋面因街的起伏重叠有加,错落上下,吊脚楼高高矮矮,颇有特色,"小山城"之称凸显。古街虽历经数百载沧桑,却古风依然。三条青石小街生蜿蜒贯穿全镇,古老的穿斗房鳞次栉比,错落有致。木屋,木门,木柱,木家具,古朴俊秀;石阶,石墙,石门,石雕,石城垣,气韵超凡。古街现有明清房屋116 栋86 户,保存完好,是研究川南边陲独特民居建筑的实证。
  龙华古镇最奇特的是,在八仙山上有一尊现今世界上位居第一的立佛———八仙山大佛。八仙山海拨850米,相对高度420米,山有八峰,有如八个罗汉排成一排,盘膝打坐,故而叫“八仙山”。立佛凿于主峰紫红色崖壁上,据省内考古专家考证,该大佛建于明末,距今已有400余年,为省级文物保护单位。新近建成宽约2米的登山石梯1716级,直达山顶丹霞洞前,隔沟与大佛相望。八仙山大佛高32米,《中国大百科全书》列入的世界十大佛像,八仙山大佛榜上有名。

(路过的鲜艳 摄影:铜河)
景区信息:
  地址:四川省宜宾市屏山县龙华镇
  咨询电话:0831-5760027(龙华古镇文史馆)
  门票:无

景点介绍:
  老街古巷:
  龙华镇有顺河街、新街、长街三条老街,紧密相依的穿斗木房有的已倾斜,厚重的木版门楼花窗已是颜色斑驳,石板路上苔痕绿幽,让人感受它的沧桑。卖纸钱的店铺陈放着色彩斑斓的纸房纸马,收购金银铜币古董瓷器的店铺、陈设老旧的理发小店,老茶馆都保留着千百年来难以舍弃的习俗和部分“土广东”先人的生活痕迹。
  靖虹古桥:
  古镇最有情趣的是静卧在小龙溪上的那座古色古香的凉桥,旧时名靖虹桥,修建于光绪辛丑年。这座幽雅秀美的凉桥是当地人集市贸易集聚休闲之地。桥两岸古老高大的黄桷树盘根匝地枝叶茂密,桥上凉风习习,桥下溪水清清。浅浅清凉的溪水从脚上潺潺淌过,水底的贝壳卵石任人挑选;溪的下游处水深齐胸,村童在水中嬉戏,享受着童年的乐趣;大人们则在凉桥上吃凉糕凉粉,细细地述说家事,这一切构成了一幅清新的乡村趣图。小镇三天逢一场,逢赶场凉桥上摆满摊位,人流熙攘,一番热闹景象。
  八仙山古佛:
  从西正街西侧方一石梯拾级而上,就是海拔八百余米的八仙山。上山的路是一条新铺就的石梯,道两旁包谷成林,到半山腰林木葱郁,道旁岩壁上有了菩萨石像,朝山的人就开始一路上香朝拜至山顶。石梯渐行渐窄,转过山崖边一道窄窄的山门,呈现的景物让人眼前一亮不由发出一声赞叹,对面高耸的崖壁上一座褚红色的大佛像细眉慈目的对你微笑,这便是全国十到达佛之一的第一大立佛,何年修成已无从考证。

(佚失年代的古佛 摄影:nj老菜)
  节庆古风:
  龙华镇的元宵闹龙灯是远近闻名的。是时,会有几十位只穿短裤裸露上身的精壮汉子在老街上舞动一竹骨布肉扎制的长龙,然后由围观者身用竹筒往沿街游舞的龙身和舞龙者上喷洒自制的焰火。场面壮观、热闹,是龙华安静、祥和的一年中最狂放的日子,对于无论是摄影者还是旅行者来说,也是一年中难得的好日子。龙华镇至今保留着一项独具特色的民间民俗活动,被称为“女子踩桥”,在每年正月十四这天,龙华镇的女子都会自发地聚集到一起,到八仙山大佛下面起香,然后下山,到凉桥上进行踩桥。目的是消灾祈福,保佑家人亲友平安、幸福。据说源于宋代。

周边景点:
  老君山:
  龙华镇的周边有许多优美的自然景观。离镇大约三公里的细沙溪是幽静的峡谷风光,流泉飞瀑溪流回旋,恐龙时代的桫椤树散落于山岩上的树丛间,是著名的桫椤树保护区公园。离龙华镇十公里外的老君山海拔2008.7米,据说是太上老君得道之处,山上有片原始森林,到山上朝拜的信徒会不辞艰辛经原始森林爬到山顶以示虔诚。
  乐山:
  乐山大佛是驰名中外的天下第一大佛(坐佛),乐山景区依山傍水,风光旖旎,名胜古迹星罗棋布,恰似天然画卷,美不胜收。或拾阶登临,或游江观瞻,荡漾于青山绿水间、浸润于诗情画意中,令人心旷神怡,流连忘返。乐山距离龙华古镇120公里,龙华古镇也可以经由乐山去成都。
  李庄古镇:
  李庄就在宜宾市的近郊,距离龙华古镇大约130公里。曾经辉煌至今古朴的李庄古镇,如果愿意,你可以像当地人那样生活,至少可以感受到当地人的生活方式。日子在此时此刻恬静详和,就象"李庄"这个名字,平淡地隐居在岁月里。李庄不仅仅是古镇,还是抗战时期,中国文化的大后方,曾经护佑中华文明度过劫难。李庄古镇攻略见:http://www.likefar.com/route/6088/

宜宾龙华古镇出游地图


龙华古镇位置图(点击可放大)

宜宾龙华古镇当地交通


(凝望的路 摄影:黑木)
  龙华古镇在川南宜宾市西120公里处的深山之中,隶属于屏山县,县级公路是唯一的到达途径。屏山县县城因向家坝水电站的建设于2012年由锦屏镇搬迁至岷江畔的屏山镇(原真溪乡),屏山县汽车站在新县城的金沙江大道中段,每天去龙华镇的班车流水发车,非常方便。但是去龙华最直接的中转城市还是宜宾市,可以免去屏山转车。
  宜宾市西门汽车客运站有直接去龙华的班车,并且有两条线路,分别为:1、西门客运站-屏山老县城-龙华镇;2、西门客运站-屏山新县城-泥溪镇-龙华镇。票价约25元。
宜宾市交通:
  西门汽车客运站:
  宜宾到达成都和重庆都是300公里左右,到乐山200公里,公路交通非常发达,宜宾西门客运站也是到达龙华古镇的重要中转站。宜宾到成都每天从7:40-17:30,约有九趟发车,票价约90元;宜宾到重庆每天从8:00-17:45,有十多趟发车,票价约90元。
  宜宾西门客运站信息:
  地址:火车站西行500米 
  电话:0831-8306333
  公交车:5路、6路、10路(西客站后门站)
  火车站
  宜宾火车站为二等站,到达宜宾的火车大多为“K”字头,乘火车去宜宾请登陆查询中国铁路客服中心:https://kyfw.12306.cn/otn/
  宜宾火车站信息:
  地址:宜宾市前进路304 
  电话:0831-7812401
  公交车:1路、5路、6路、11路
  飞机场
  宜宾机场目前(2014年2月)还是菜坝机场,著名的“宜宾五粮液国际机场”尚在建设中。宜宾菜坝机场距离市区7公里,有机场大巴、公交车(8路)、出租车与市区相通。宜宾机场与北京、上海、广州等全国各大城市通航,详情可查:http://flight.qunar.com/
  宜宾菜坝机场信息:
  地址:宜宾市区西北菜坝镇
  电话:0831-8100371
  公交车:8路(末班车19:00)、机场大巴(首末车随航班)
自驾游:
  去龙华自驾游有多条路线,但主要是成都和重庆两个方向。从成都方向,可以走:成都-眉山-乐山-犍为-沐川-龙华,全程268公里;从重庆方向,可以走:重庆-合江-泸州-宜宾-屏山-龙华,全程400公里。

宜宾龙华古镇当地住宿

  龙华古镇尚未开放旅游,保持最原始的乡村状态,又地处深山,目前还没有酒店客栈,但幸好龙华是个镇级单位,在古镇想住一晚上,可以在龙华镇的镇政府招待所、粮站招待所或者八仙招待所,每晚床位大约20元,卫生条件不错,洗漱也还方便。古镇里最安全卫生的住宿大概要算龙华镇政府招待所了,相对更安全、卫生,虽比不上大城市的条件,但在这个古镇也算相当不错。龙华镇不大,这些招待所也没有门牌,在镇上一问便知。

宜宾龙华古镇当地饮食


(廊桥下的食摊 摄影:一箪食客)
  当地人生活水平不高,吃住都很便宜。虽说便宜,也并不是说饮食简陋,做为吃货大省,龙华的小吃也是非常讲究的,简陋的是店铺的陈设,而碗筷间,都是精华。龙华特色小吃有叶叶粑,玉米粑,麻辣凉粉;一定不要错过地道的屏山老腊肉,喜欢"喝醋"的朋友也要品尝当地特色——屏山套醋。龙华镇的餐馆小吃店大多集中在古街,凉桥的桥头。如果赶上赶集日,老街两旁各种小吃摊更加的多。

宜宾龙华古镇行程规划

  龙华古镇适合一日游,上午到达游览古镇,下午去五仙山参拜世界第一立佛。想要体验古镇生活,也可以在龙华住一宿。

宜宾龙华古镇当地视频


[走遍中国]中国古镇 龙华:神秘大佛

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顾问:龙华古镇文史馆陈长春 电话:0831-5760027

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